This loaf makes great toast because it’s not only crackly on the outside, but also has crunchy bits on the inside. In this yeast-raised cornbread recipe from Jeffrey Hamelman, fine cornmeal is added to a basic white wheat dough for texture and that freshly made tortilla smell.

I couldn’t help but think of popcorn so I replaced the extra virgin olive oil in the original recipe with brown butter (or beurre noisette for you Francophiles). The movie theater scent is faint, but toasting and serving with a side of the amber liquid makes it a bit more obvious.

formula adapted from Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Yeast-Raised Cornbread with Brown Butter

makes 2 loaves weighing approximately 1 1/4 pounds  / 567 grams

For the Poolish (Pre-fermented Dough):

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
bread flour, unbleached       1 3/4 cups          8            227
water, at room temperature        1 tbsp          8            227
instant yeast                   1/8 tsp

Poolish (Pre-fermented Dough) Instructions:

Mix the poolish ingredients until smooth. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12 to 16 hours.

Final Dough Formula:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
cornmeal, preferably fine grind   2 cups          8            227
water, at room temperature    1 1/2 cups         12.2          346
bread flour, unbleached       3 5/8 cups         16            454
kosher salt                       1 tbsp + 2 tsp   .6           17
instant yeast                 1 1/2 tsp
brown butter, cooled              3 tbsp          1.6           45
all of the poolish

Final Dough Instructions:

• Use about 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter to make 3 tablespoons of brown butter.

Final Dough Instructions:

Soak            Mix the cornmeal and water. Let the cornmeal soak for
                at least 15 minutes to soften the cornmeal.

Mix             Add the rest of the final dough ingredients until a
                shaggy ball is formed.

Knead           8 to 10 minutes. The cornmeal will inhibit gluten
                formation but the dough should be pliable and only
                slightly sticky. 

Rest            5 minutes

Knead           1 minute to further strengthen the gluten.

Ferment #1      45 minutes at room temperature

Stretch and Fold

Ferment #1      45 minutes at room temperature

Preshape        loose rounds

Rest            15 to 20 minutes

Shape           shape into a tight oval or boule

Preheat Oven    460ºF/238ºC

Final Proof     1 to 1 1/4 hours at room temperature

Proofed yeast-raised cornbread dough.

Score

Slashed yeast-raised cornbread dough. Got a bit overzealous with the knife here.

Steam           1 cup of boiling water poured into a heavy steam
                pan, preferably cast iron

Bake            Bake at 460ºF/238ºC for about 40 minutes, rotating
                the pan halfway through baking to brown the loaves
                evenly and let the steam escape.

Cool            At least 1 hour

Yeast-raised cornbread cooling on a rack.

The requisite crumb shot. The crumb is tight because cornmeal and gluten do not get along well.

Links About Jeffrey Hamelman’s Yeast-Raised Cornbread:

• Bread Cetera
  

White-cut chicken is a traditional Chinese preparation that calls for poaching, cutting on the bone, chilling, and serving with a flavorful dipping sauce. Chicken doesn’t have to be fried, crisp, or golden brown to be delicious. When it comes to Chinese dishes, “traditional” usually implies “old as hell” and “bajillions served,” so they must be eating something right. If you’re still not convinced after trying this recipe (highly unlikely), here’s another example of pale but tasty steamed chicken.

recipe adapted from Eileen Yin-fei Lo’s The Chinese Kitchen and The Chinese Chicken Cookbook

白切雞 (Bai Qie Ji)
White Cut Chicken
With Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce

makes 4 to 6 servings

3 1/2-pound chicken
1/4 cup kosher salt

For the Poaching Liquid:

10 cups water
6 scallions, trimmed and cut in thirds
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar

1-inch piece of fresh ginger, smashed (optional)
1/2 cup fresh coriander / cilantro, stalks cut in half (optional)
1/4 cup Chinese white rice wine (optional)

For the Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce:

2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons chicken stock or reserved poaching liquid
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons finely sliced scallions, white parts only
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar

Equipment:

• A heavy pot, preferably a dutch oven

Notes:

• This recipe is based on two versions from the same author. The list of optional ingredients is the difference between the two.
• Also try this ginger-scallion dipping sauce recipe.

To Wash the Chicken:

1. Wash the chicken under cold running water. Remove any excess fat and rub with about 1/4 cup of kosher salt. Rinse again under cold running water and drain.

To Poach the Chicken:

1. In a heavy pot or dutch oven, add all of the poaching liquid ingredients and bring to a boil. Boil for about 5 minutes.
2. Place the chicken in the pot and add just enough water to cover the chicken. Return to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook while covered for about 30 minutes.
3. Turn off the heat and let the chicken cool to room temperature in the poaching liquid.
4. Remove the chicken from the pot, drain well, and cut into bite-sized pieces. The chicken can also be chilled — refrigerate for at least 2 hours before slicing and serving. Reserve at least 2 tablespoons of the poaching liquid for the ginger-soy dipping sauce if chicken stock isn’t available.

To Serve:

Mix all of the ginger-soy dipping sauce ingredients and spoon into individual small dishes. Serve the sliced chicken slightly chilled or at room temperature.

Links about Chinese White Cut Chicken:

• Kits Chow
• Sunday Nite Dinner

Do you try and remember the first things you learned to cook? My memory is a bit hazy, but here’s my list so far:

• Rice, because some Filipino kids are forced to cook as soon as they can lift a pot.
• Eggs, sunny-side up.
• Hot dogs, cut with a butter knife to resemble octopi.

And of course, this crab and corn soup. From a packet, mind you, in its full natural and artificial flavoring glory. In case you were wondering, the neon-red crab product highlighted on the packaging falls under the synthetic category. It could’ve been anything from fish-flavored bathmat bits to dessicated denture adhesive and I wouldn’t have cared. Stirring with a blackened wooden spoon in one hand and an egg in the other,  I felt like a rockstar grade-schooler while preparing instant soup.

I had almost forgotten about this soup so I was glad to find this recipe in my favorite Chinese cookbook. It eschews the cornstarch to keep it light, and more importantly, it’s all natural, as long as you stay away from krab.

recipe adapted from Eileen Yin-fei Lo’s The Chinese Kitchen

Chinese Crab and Corn Soup

makes 6 to 8 servings

4 cups (about 1 1/4 pounds) corn kernels, fresh or frozen
6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1/4 pound crabmeat
5 large egg whites or 3 whole eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions

Equipment:

• A blender
• A heavy pot

Notes:

• Change the amount of corn that is pureed with the chicken stock to get the desired consistency. I used about a quarter of the corn kernels for a thinner soup.

Instructions:

1. Place about half of the corn kernels and 1 cup of the stock in a blender. Pulse to a coarse puree.
2. In a heavy pot, heat the remaining 5 cups of chicken stock with the grated ginger, ground pepper, and salt. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.
3. Add the whole corn kernels and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook for about 5 minutes.
4. Increase the heat to high and immediately add the pureed corn. Bring to a boil and cook for about 3 minutes while stirring.
5. Add the crabmeat and return to a boil.
6. Pour a thin stream of beaten egg in a spiral pattern over the soup and stir well. Turn off the heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To Serve:

Sprinkle with the sliced scallions and serve immediately.

Not getting enough butternut in your risotto? Has this ever happened to you? (Warning: video contains choice words from British chef)

This basic butternut squash risotto recipe comes from a less disgruntled (gruntled?) British chef whose cooking style I really admire. The dish may be simple, but the garnish makes it a bit more interesting.

In addition to the chopped sage cooked slowly with the rice, whole sage leaves are quickly pan-fried and used as a seemingly out-of-place topping. Resist the urge to push the browned herbs to the side of the plate in favor of the bright orange morsels. The crispy sage leaves crumble and release a mellow smokiness that nicely complements the sweet butternut squash and creamy rice.

recipe adapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage Cookbook
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Diary of a Fanatic Foodie

Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage

makes 4 servings

Arborio rice and sage.

For the Butternut Squash Risotto:

2 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken stock, preferably homemade and lightly seasoned
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
a dozen fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
3/4 cup Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano rice, unwashed
8 ounces (about 1 1/2 cups) peeled butternut squash, cut into 1/4-inch dice

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Crispy Sage:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
a dozen fresh sage leaves

For Serving:

Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese

Notes:

• The cooking time will vary depending on the cooking vessel and type of rice you use.
• If short on stock and the rice is still not done to your liking, feel free to use boiling water instead of additional stock.

Instructions:

1. Heat the stock and keep at a gentle simmer over low heat.
2. In a separate heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook while stirring until the onions are translucent. Add the chopped sage leaves and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes, taking care to keep the onions from browning.
3. Add the rice and stir until the grains are well-coated with the olive oil and the outer layers of the grain are slightly translucent.
4. Pour enough stock to barely cover the rice, about 1/2 cup. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon, wiping the sides and bottom of the pot clean while doing so, until the stock is fully absorbed.
5. Add the diced butternut squash along with another 1/2 cup of stock. Continue adding the stock in 1/2-cup increments and stirring as described above, until the butternut squash is soft and the rice is done to the desired level of doneness.

To Serve:

When the risotto is almost done, heat the vegetable oil in a small pan over medium-high heat. Fry the sage leaves quickly, about a few seconds, until dark brown and crispy.

Add the butter and stir until completely melted. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.

Serve immediately in wide platters and top with the crispy sage leaves, with cheese and a grater on the side.

Pan-fried crispy sage leaves.

Is that 22-ounce steak dinner from last night bogging you down? Suffering from a roughage-deficient diet? Move mountains with this high-fiber variation on the 100% whole wheat sandwich bread. Packed with flaxseeds and oat bran, this bread recipe provides the benefits of both soluble and insoluble fiber without the unpleasant side effects of pumpernickel.

If it’s still not obvious why cleaning equipment is involved in the bread name, here’s a video that might help:

formula adapted from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Flaxseed and Oat Bran “Broom” Bread - 100% Whole Grain

makes one 8 1/2 x 4 1/2-inch pan loaf

For the Biga (Pre-fermented Dough):

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
whole wheat flour             1 3/4 cups          8            227
instant yeast                   1/4 tsp
water, at room temperature      3/4 cup           6            170

Biga (Pre-fermented Dough) Instructions:

Mix the biga ingredients until a shaggy ball of dough is formed. Knead the biga for about 2 minutes or until the ingredients are evenly distributed.

Place the biga in a bowl and cover. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 3 days. Let the biga sit at room temperature for about 2 hours before using in the final dough.

For the Soaker:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
whole wheat flour    1 1/3 cups + 1 tbsp          6.5          184
oat bran                          4 tbsp          1             28
flaxseeds                     1 1/2 tbsp           .5           14
kosher salt                       1 tsp            .14           4
water                   3/4 cup + 2 tbsp          7            198

Soaker Instructions:

Mix the soaker ingredients until evenly hydrated. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

Final Dough Formula:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all of the biga, cut into 12 pieces
all of the soaker, cut into 12 pieces
whole wheat flour                 7 tbsp          2             57
kosher salt                     1/2 tbsp           .18           5
instant yeast                 2 1/4 tsp            .25           7
granulated sugar                  3 tbsp          1.5           43
olive oil                         1 tbsp           .5           14

oat bran, for topping (optional)

Final Dough Instructions:

Mix             Mix all of the ingredients until evenly incorporated

Knead           8 to 10 minutes

Rest            5 minutes

Knead           1 minute to further strengthen the gluten

Bulk Ferment    45 to 60 minutes at room temperature in a lightly
                oiled bowl, or until 1 1/2 times its size

Shape           loaf pan shape, in a greased 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 loaf pan

Sprinkle the tops of the shaped dough with more oat bran (optional).

Preheat Oven    425ºF/218ºC

Final Proof     45 to 60 minutes at room temperature, or until
                1 1/2 times its size

Score the proofed dough immediately before baking (optional).

Bake            Lower the temperature immediately to 350ºF/177ºC.
                Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the loaf if necessary
                and bake for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the
                loaf registers 195ºF/91ºC in the center.

Cool            At least 1 hour

Flaxseed and oat bran broom bread top view.

Flaxseed and oat bran broom bread side view.

Since the Japanese have high life expectancy, it follows that this braised pork belly recipe is health food, doesn’t it? Green vegetables are also involved and a hefty portion of the fat is melted away through slow cooking, so the corollary holds true so far.

A few glasses of Japanese green tea or red wine can help negate the unsavory effects of rich foods anyway, so there’s absolutely no reason to worry. Right?

pork belly braising instructions adapted from Tom Colicchio’s Think Like A Chef
adapted from the Nagasaki-Style Braised Pork recipe in Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art

Pork Belly Braised in Soy and Dashi
Served with Simmered Snow Peas and Pearl Onions

makes 4 servings

Snow peas and pearl onions.

For the Braised Pork Belly:

2 pounds skin-on pork belly, preferably including the ribs, cut into 4 square pieces
kosher salt
vegetable oil

3 1/2 cups dashi
1 cup sake
2 tablespoons mirin
6 tablespoons dark or regular soy sauce
6 tablespoons sugar
6-inch knob of ginger, peeled and crushed

For the Simmered Vegetables:

a handful of pearl onions, peeled
a handful of snow peas, trimmed

1 1/4 cups dashi
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons light or regular soy sauce

For Serving:

2 tablespoons Japanese or Dijon mustard

Notes:

• If using bone-in pork belly, have your butcher cut the pork belly into square serving pieces, unless you like wielding huge meat cleavers.
• Use instant dashi granules, also known as dashi-no-moto or hon-dashi, for convenience. It takes about 1 teaspoon of instant dashi for every 3 cups of water.

To Braise the Pork Belly:

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF / 177ºC. Pat the pork belly dry with paper towels and season lightly with kosher salt.
2. In a large container, mix together the dashi, sake, mirin, soy sauce, and sugar until the sugar is dissolved.
3. Heat a thin layer of vegetable oil in a heavy ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Brown the pork belly pieces, skin side down, until well-browned, about 15 minutes. Remove the pork belly pieces from the skillet.
4. Add half of the dashi-soy mixture to the skillet. Stir and scrape the bottom of the skillet with a wooden spoon or spatula.
5. Return the pork belly pieces to the skillet, skin side up. Add the necessary amount of the leftover dashi-soy mixture to immerse about two-thirds of the pork belly. Add the peeled and crushed ginger.
6. Bring to a boil over high heat. Place the skillet in the 350ºF / 177ºC oven and braise while uncovered for about 2 hours.
7. Allow the pork belly to cool in the braising liquid. Alternatively, you can also cool the pork belly to room temperature and refrigerate overnight.

How to give the impression that you know what you’re doing: use an old cast-iron skillet.

To Serve:

1. Preheat the oven to 400ºF / 205ºC.
2. Using a small knife, remove the skin by lifting it gently from the layers of fat underneath. Score the fat with a cross-hatch pattern and transfer the skillet to the oven. Cook until the pork is heated through and the fat is browned, about 20 minutes.
3. While the pork belly is in the oven, simmer the vegetables.

Scored fat on the braised pork belly.

To Simmer the Vegetables:

1. Mix together the dashi, mirin, and soy sauce for simmering the vegetables.
2. Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil.
3. Parboil the snow peas in the lightly salted water for about 2 to 3 minutes. Wash the snow peas with cold water to stop the cooking.
4. Parboil the pearl onions in the lightly salted water until slightly translucent. Wash the pearl onions with cold water to stop the cooking.
5. Discard the lightly salted water and replace with the dashi, mirin, and soy sauce mixture. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer.
6. Simmer the snow peas and pearl onions until heated through, about 1 to 2 minutes. Discard the simmering liquid.

Place the snow peas and pearl onions in a shallow bowl. Place the heated pork belly on top with a few tablespoons of the braising liquid. The braising liquid will be strongly flavored — a little goes a long way.

Serve with a dab of Japanese or Dijon mustard.

“Traditional” and “simple” rarely belong in the same breath when it comes to Mexican recipes, but if you can find ancho chiles, this braised chicken recipe makes great weeknight fare without being light on flavor. It’s the antithesis to festive Mexican dishes that have several sub-recipes — you only need a few spices, pantry staples, and fresh tortillas.

When selecting ancho chiles, look for pliability and a shiny dark exterior. Holding it up against light will reveal a reddish-brown hue. Since poblano chiles are naturally mild and sweet, its dried version in ancho chiles lend a similar quality to sauces and moles.

recipe adapted from Diana Kennedy’s Essential Cuisines of Mexico

Pollo en Ajo-Comino
Chicken Braised in Ancho Chiles, Garlic, and Cumin

makes 6 to 8 servings

4 ancho chiles, veins and seeds removed
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
12 black peppercorns
1 whole clove
1 tablespoon kosher salt, or to taste
4 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 1/2-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces

Equipment:

• A molcajete and tejolote (mortar and pestle)
• A blender
• A heavy pot

Instructions:

1. In a small skillet, cover the ancho chiles with water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, then soak for another 5 minutes. Drain.
2. Using a molcajete or mortar, grind the cumin, black peppercorns, clove, salt, and garlic. Add about 1/4 cup of water to form a thin paste.
3. Blend the soaked ancho chiles with 3/4 cup of water until smooth.
4. Pat the chicken pieces dry with paper towels and season lightly with salt.
5. In a heavy pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Fry the chicken pieces until pale gold, about 5-6 minutes per side. Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside.
6. Immediately add the cumin and garlic mixture to the pot and cook for about 3 minutes while stirring constantly.
7. Add the pureed ancho chiles and cook for another 3 minutes while scraping the bottom of the pot constantly.
8. Add 2 1/2 cups of water and return the browned chicken pieces to the pot. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Braise while uncovered for about 45 minutes, turning the chicken occasionally.
9. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To Serve:

Serve warm with freshly made tortillas.

Simplicity is not always synonymous with traditional when it comes to recipes, but with gambas al ajillo, a handful of choice ingredients is enough to recreate one of Spain’s most famous tapas. Fresh shrimp is cooked briefly with garlic, dried red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and extra virgin olive oil in a preparation equally at home in minimalist and traditional recipe collections.

Paprika, parsley, and lemon juice are not even mentioned, but hopefully this serves as a good starting point for your own variations. Just don’t forget the crusty bread — gambas al ajillo is as much about the shrimp as the garlic-infused oil.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain

Gambas al Ajillo
Garlic Shrimp Tapas

makes 1 tapas-sized serving

1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced thinly
pinch dried red pepper flakes
1/2 bay leaf
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 ounces small fresh shrimp, shelled

pinch coarse sea salt

Notes:

• Devein or not devein? According to Penelope Casas, shrimp is never deveined in Spain, but it’s all about personal preference.

Instructions:

1. In a room temperature earthenware pot (cazuelas) or small skillet, place the garlic, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and extra virgin olive oil. Heat over medium-high until the garlic is sizzling and pale golden.
2. Add the shrimp and cook while stirring, about 2 minutes.
3. Season with coarse sea salt.

To Serve:

Serve sizzling in the cazuelas or in a shallow warmed bowl with crusty bread.

This blueberry and cranberry loaf is based on a recipe for “election day bread,” which originally had raisins, candied citrus, and spices. Considering its name, doesn’t it make more sense studded with reds and blues?

But since blueberries are in season during the warmer months and cranberries during the cooler months, this combination doesn’t make sense from the standpoint of the farmer’s market-obsessed, either.

Help decide the outcome of this recipe. Which would you prefer?
(click here to visit the original post if you can’t see the polling form below)

Your input counts.

adapted from the Election Day Bread recipe in Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Breads

Blueberry-Cranberry Bread with Nuts

makes one 10-inch tube loaf

Red, white, and blue with a handful of nuts. Very American.

For the Yeast Batter:

1 1/2 cups bread or all-purpose flour (6.75 ounces / 191 grams)
3 teaspoons instant yeast
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups warm water, about 120ºF / 49ºF

For the Final Dough:

3 cups bread or all-purpose flour (13.5 ounces / 383 grams)
2 teaspoons salt

3/4 cup butter (6 ounces / 170 grams), at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar (7 ounces / 200 grams)
2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup dried blueberries
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup coarsely chopped nuts
1 tablespoon flour

confectioner’s sugar, for dusting (optional)

Final Dough Instructions:

Mix Batter      Mix all of the yeast batter ingredients until smooth.
                The consistency will be similar to thick pancake
                batter.

Ferment         Cover the yeast batter and let rise for 30 minutes. The
                yeast batter will be bubbly and will rise considerably.

Mix Dry         Mix the 3 cups of flour and salt until thoroughly
                incorporated.

Cream           Cream the room temperature butter and sugar until light
                and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and continue
                mixing until smooth.

Final Mix       Add the butter mixture to the yeast batter and stir
                thoroughly. Add the salted flour about 1/4 cup at a
                time while stirring vigorously. The batter will be
                very sticky and have some gluten development.

                Dredge the blueberries, cranberries, and nuts in
                1 tablespoon of flour and add to the batter. Mix
                until the fruits and nuts are evenly distributed.

Pan             Spoon the batter into a lightly greased 10-inch tube
                pan. Level and smooth the tops with a spoon.

Final Proof     Cover and let rise at room temperature until almost
                doubled in size, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Proofed cranberry-blueberry bread.

Preheat Oven    375ºF / 190ºC

Bake            Bake at 375ºF / 190ºC for about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours,
                rotating the pan halfway through baking. Test for
                doneness using a wooden skewer or cake tester.

Dust with confectioner's sugar, if desired.

Blueberry-cranberry bread dusted with confectioner’s sugar.

Blueberry-cranberry bread crumb.

These advertisements were not solicited and do not represent my views. I sincerely apologize for any offense caused.