You’ll likely spend more effort looking for the key ingredient than preparing this simple grilled chicken (see below for a substitution suggestion). The original recipe mentions Fox & Obel, a Chicago grocer that makes Whole Foods seem like Cheap Eats Galore by comparison, as the only source for Espelette peppers around here ($17.99 for 45 grams).

Fox & Obel is a last resort for me because I can drive myself into serious debt just by getting a few ounces of this and that. Groceries aren’t supposed to be a threat to my measly credit limit, but good judgment flies out the window after a few minutes of walking around that tasty-sexy food haven. I wonder what the employee discount is like.

Espelette peppers are coarsely ground dried chiles with a brick red hue. It has AOC status, so the peppers are exclusively sourced from specific French communes and follow strict production methods. It is an essential ingredient in classic Basque dishes such as Pipérade and Poulet Basquaise.

A suitable substitute is paprika with a pinch of cayenne, as suggested in Anne Willan’s The Country Cooking of France. This approximates the distinctive mix of sweetness and mild heat in Espelette peppers.

recipe adapted from The Publican via Time Out Chicago
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Prof. Kitty

The Publican’s Grilled Chicken with Espelette Pepper and Oregano

makes about 2 servings

Ingredients:

2 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice, preferably freshly squeezed
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon espelette pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 1/2 tablespoon brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 whole chicken or 2 cornish hens (about 3 lbs), spatchcocked

Notes:

• Never spatchcocked poultry before? Here’s a helpful video of Alton Brown spatchcocking a cornish hen.

Directions:

1. Mix together all of the seasonings in a container big enough to contain the chicken.
2. Add the spatchcocked chicken and toss to coat. Refrigerate to marinade for at least one hour and up to overnight.
3. If using a charcoal or gas grill: Heat charcoals on one side of the grill or light half of a gas grill. Grill the chicken skin-side down over indirect heat while covered.
   If using an oven: Preheat a lightly oiled cast iron skillet in a 350ºF / 175ºC oven. Place the chicken skin-side down in the hot skillet and return to the oven.
4. Grill or roast for about 30 minutes, until the juices run clear when you cut into the chicken. If using a digital thermometer, the temperature in the thickest part of the thighs should reach 170ºF / 77ºC.
5. Remove the chicken from the grill or oven and let rest for about five minutes before carving.
6. Serve with lemon halves. Grill or roast the lemon halves for a few minutes if you feel like it.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Grilled Chicken with Espelette Pepper

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Flan de Naranja is a light and silky custard dessert topped with soft caramel. Instead of milk or cream, this recipe uses freshly squeezed orange juice brightened with its own zest.

This light, dare I say healthy, flan recipe is also as easy as custard desserts get. There is no need to precook the custard, which means there’s zero chance of screwing up and ending with orange-flavored scrambled eggs.

The trickiest part is making the caramel. I’m hoping that rendering a few pounds of sugar inedible for the sake of testing means that I’m somewhat qualified to give a few tips on caramelizing.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain

Flan de Naranja
Orange Custard

makes 4 servings

Equipment:

4 six-ounce ramekins
a bain-marie / water bath (a 9 x 13-inch baking dish filled with hot water)

For the Caramel:

1/2 cup granulated sugar
4 teaspoons water
2 teaspoons corn syrup (optional)

For the Orange Custard:

6 large eggs
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 1/3 cups freshly squeezed orange juice (about 4 to 5 oranges)
1 teaspoon orange zest

Notes:

• Why add corn syrup to the caramel? Adding corn syrup prevents the caramel from crystallizing.
• To caramelize the syrup evenly, a bit of agitation is needed. Swirling the pan gently instead of stirring keeps the syrup from turning into a sandy mess.

Caramel Directions:

1. In a small skillet, mix together the sugar, water, and corn syrup (if using). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Start swirling the syrup gently (don’t stir) and continue cooking until the caramel is amber-colored.
2. Immediately pour the caramel into the 4 ramekins to coat the bottom evenly. Let the caramel set and cool completely before making the custard.

Orange Custard Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 325ºF / 165ºC.
2. Make the orange custard. Lightly beat the eggs with a fork until light-colored, taking care to minimize the amount of air incorporated into the eggs. Add the sugar and continue beating while pouring in the orange juice. Strain. Add the orange zest and stir.
3. Prepare the bain-marie/water bath. Place cloth or paper towels in an empty 9×13-inch baking dish (this helps insulate the bottom of the ramekins from excessive heat). Set the ramekins on the towels and distribute the custard evenly. Place in the preheated oven and carefully pour enough hot water in the baking dish to at least the same level as the custard.
4. Bake at 325ºF / 165ºC for 45 to 55 minutes, until the custard is set in the center. A wooden skewer inserted in the center of the custard should come out clean. Remove from the bain-marie/water bath and let cool at room temperature. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
5. To serve, run a thin-bladed knife around the custard edge and invert on a plate to unmold. Some of the caramel will remain stuck to the bottom of the ramekins.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Flan de Naranja – Orange Custard

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Ensalada Valenciana is a simple salad of potatoes and oranges dressed with a red wine vinaigrette. This light salad has several layers of sweetness — subtle red potatoes, fresh and fruity oranges, and roasted savory pimientos.

What is a pimiento? It’s a generic Spanish word for peppers, but in this recipe, pimientos refer to roasted, skinned, and seeded sweet peppers. Pimientos are available canned or jarred but can be easily made at home.

For homemade pimientos, roast whole sweet peppers (such as your standard red bell) at 375ºF / 190ºC for about 30 minutes, turning halfway through roasting. The skins will blister and blacken. Peel the roasted peppers and remove the seeds. Refrigerated in an airtight container, pimientos will keep for several days.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain
Monthly Mingle: Healthy Family Dinners hosted by What’s Cooking Blog

Ensalada Valenciana
Potato and Orange Salad

makes 4 servings

Ingredients:

3 medium red waxy potatoes, about 1 to 1 1/2 pounds
1/2 red onion
1 orange
1 pimiento
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Place the potatoes in a pot and fill with water to cover. Add a few pinches of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and continue cooking until the potatoes are tender and easily pierced with a fork. Simmering may take anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes depending on the size. Let the potatoes cool completely, peel, and slice into 1-inch chunks.
2. Slice the red onion into thin slivers.
3. Peel the orange, slice into 1/4-inch cartwheels, and quarter.
4. Slice the pimiento into strips.
5. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, onions, orange slices, and pimientos. Mix together the oil and vinegar briefly, pour over the salad, and fold gently with a rubber spatula.
6. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until well chilled.
7. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Potato and Orange Salad – Ensalada Valenciana

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6. Japanese Vinegared Cucumber

It wasn’t easy growing up the youngest of five siblings. My three older man-brothers took it upon themselves to toughen up my prepubescent self when I got too good at Donkey Kong and Super Mario Bros. Sore thumbs abruptly turned into sore everything when boxing gloves and elbows in the solar plexus during intense games of pickup basketball followed. All I ever wanted to do was mash buttons and beat the Hi Score.

When things got extra harsh, my sister always had my back. Whereas one word from her and the brothers listen, any time I made so much as a peep, I end up in a headlock. Not even having my own armpit hair at the time, the prickly-moist sensation against the back of my neck was extra disgusting.

My sister and I have a little bond, you see. Since I’m the youngest and she’s the only daughter, we’re automatically the darling family favorites, and we knew how to take advantage of that. Obsessed with Hello Kitty and all things feline, my sister often asked for lenguas de gato, or “cat’s tongue” cookies, as pasalubong from our parents. Sometimes we would lock ourselves in my sister’s room, far away from brotherly physical abuse, with a boxful of the crisp and buttery treats.

The burnt edges and pale center instantly melt in your mouth, giving the cookie an unexpected complex taste considering the simplicity of the recipe. Of course, my sister and I didn’t really know or care about the wonders of caramelization back then. We just thought lenguas de gato were good and addictive.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain
Eat Christmas Cookies hosted by Food Blogga

Lenguas de Gato
“Cat’s Tongue” Vanilla-Butter Cookies

makes about 70 small cookies

Ingredients:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
unsalted butter                   8 tbsp          4            113
confectioner's sugar            3/4 cup           3.2           90
salt                          pinch
vanilla extract                 1/4 tsp
lemon zest                      1/8 tsp

all-purpose flour               3/4 cup           3.4           96
whites from large eggs            2               2.1           60

Notes:

• Have all of the ingredients at room temperature before continuing.
• The use of confectioner’s sugar maximizes the cookie spread and minimizes the amount of aeration in the cookie dough when mixing. It also gives the cookie a finer texture.

Special Equipment:

• A pastry bag
• A #11 or #12 round pastry tip (about 1/4-inch opening)

To Prepare Lenguas de Gato – “Cat’s Tongue” Cookies:

Preheat Oven   400ºF / 205ºC

Prepare two half-sheet pans or cookie sheets lined with parchment or
silicone mats.

Mix             Using a rubber spatula, mix together the butter,
                sugar, salt, vanilla extract, and lemon zest until
                smooth.

                Gently fold in half of the flour. Slowly mix in the
                egg whites followed by the rest of the flour.
                Continue mixing only until thoroughly incorporated.

Pipe            Put the cookie dough in a pastry bag fitted with a
                round pastry tip (about 1/4-inch opening). Pipe the
                dough onto the prepared pans in 2 1/2-inch lengths.

                Space the piped dough at least 1 1/2 inches apart
                to allow for spread.



Bake            Bake at 400ºF / 205ºC for 6 to 8 minutes, until the
                edges are lightly browned and the middle is still
                pale.

Cool            Immediately transfer the cookies to a wire rack to
                cool. The cookies will be pliable straight from the
                oven but will crisp within minutes.

Chocolate Lenguas de Gato Variation:

• Omit the lemon zest and replace one-fifth of the flour with unsweetened cocoa powder.

Links related to Lenguas de Gato – “Cat’s Tongue” Cookies:

• Langues de Chat with an Asian twist at Chocolate and Zucchini
• An alternate recipe at Cook Mobile
• Must use egg whites at Market Manila

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Lenguas de Gato – “Cat’s Tongue” Cookies

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Simplicity is not always synonymous with traditional when it comes to recipes, but with gambas al ajillo, a handful of choice ingredients is enough to recreate one of Spain’s most famous tapas. Fresh shrimp is cooked briefly with garlic, dried red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and extra virgin olive oil in a preparation equally at home in minimalist and traditional recipe collections.

Paprika, parsley, and lemon juice are not even mentioned, but hopefully this serves as a good starting point for your own variations. Just don’t forget the crusty bread — gambas al ajillo is as much about the shrimp as the garlic-infused oil.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain

Gambas al Ajillo
Garlic Shrimp Tapas

makes 1 tapas-sized serving

1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced thinly
pinch dried red pepper flakes
1/2 bay leaf
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 ounces small fresh shrimp, shelled

pinch coarse sea salt

Notes:

• Devein or not devein? According to Penelope Casas, shrimp is never deveined in Spain, but it’s all about personal preference.

Instructions:

1. In a room temperature earthenware pot (cazuelas) or small skillet, place the garlic, red pepper flakes, bay leaf, and extra virgin olive oil. Heat over medium-high until the garlic is sizzling and pale golden.
2. Add the shrimp and cook while stirring, about 2 minutes.
3. Season with coarse sea salt.

To Serve:

Serve sizzling in the cazuelas or in a shallow warmed bowl with crusty bread.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Gambas al Ajillo – Simplest Garlic Shrimp Tapas

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Do you twist Oreos apart and eat the filling by itself? Doing the same filling finagling maneuver with Fig Newtons is a lot messier but I can’t help it. The is-it-cake-or-is-it-cookie sawdust exterior merely gets in the way of fig enjoyment by jamming itself in between teeth and up roofs of mouth. It’s nothing more than a bland delivery device for the sweet interior if you ask me.

I only want the fig filling. This classic Spanish method for preserving and spicing figs satisfies that need and soundly beats anything an automatic fig extruder can produce.

Unlike Oreo filling, which is basically shortening creamed with sugar, figs and almonds are the main ingredients in pan de higo so it also has a lot going for it in the nutritional value department. Both are packed with nutrients — figs are rich in fiber and almonds supposedly keep you smart. Compare with the effects of eating massive amounts of sweetened semisolid fat: sugar high, crash, guilt, and depression, most likely in that order.

Think Spice… Think Anise Seed, Cinnamon, and Cloves
hosted by Sunita’s World

recipe adapted from The Gilded Fork

Pan de Higo
Spanish Fig Cake

makes 1 large loaf or 8 mini fig cakes

cinnamon, cloves, anise seeds, sesame seeds, and dried mission figs

1 pound dried figs, stemmed
1/2 cup almonds
2 tablespoons whole sesame seeds
1/2 teaspoon whole anise seeds
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
a pinch of ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon honey
brandy, as needed

Notes:

• Almond meal is a good substitute for the 1/2 cup of whole almonds. Toast about 5 ounces of almond meal on a dry skillet briefly and use in place of the whole almonds.
• I only needed about 2-3 tablespoons of brandy to bring everything together. If my mom’s fruit cake making wisdom is accurate, the alcohol acts as a natural preservative.

Instructions:

Toast the almonds in a dry skillet and grind in a food processor or spice grinder. Pulse gently until roughly chopped, keeping the almonds from turning into a paste.

Using a food processor or two Chinese cleavers (guess which method I used), mince the stemmed figs until a rough paste is formed.

Mix the figs with the ground toasted almonds, sesame seeds, anise seeds, ground cloves, and ground cinnamon.

Add the honey and a few tablespoons of brandy to the fig mixture. Knead until a smooth and pliant ball is formed. The fig mixture will be crumbly but keep kneading until the ingredients are evenly incorporated. Add more brandy as needed.

Form the fig mixture into a loaf shape or use a muffin pan as a mold to form 8 single-serving fig cakes:

Let stand in a cool and dry place for 2-3 days before serving. The anise seeds, cinnamon, and cloves will mellow and meld together nicely, serving as a nice accent to the sweet figs and toasted almonds.

To Serve:

Serve with Manchego cheese or with any cheese platter. I prefer dipping pan de higo slices in honey and then in ground toasted almonds.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pan de Higo – Spanish Fig Cake

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The shape of a bread is probably the best indicator of its provenance and ingredients, short of having the recipe in hand. Shaped like a stick and scored decoratively? Probably a French baguette with nothing more than flour, salt, water, and yeast. Flat, wide, and heavily floured? Probably an Italian ciabatta, hydrated much more than your standard dough. Looks like a gigantic Hershey’s Kisses? Uh, wheat, rye, and cornmeal sourdough from Galicia?

So Pan Gallego de Centeno is not exactly iconic to most people outside of Galicia. What can I say? I like trying out obscure regional recipes.

One look at the picture above and it’s immediately obvious that it bears no resemblance to Hershey’s Kisses. It looked fine just before baking (see below), until it decided to explode once settled on the hot baking stone.

Even if it didn’t look as I hoped it would, the crusty results were good enough for me. The burst top turned into a crisp crust with varying degrees of burnt edges; it was easily the most enjoyable part. The interior was fluffy, chewy, and lightly scented with caraway, arguably the best spice to complement rye breads. The small amounts of cornmeal were noticeable only towards the end of chewing, giving the loaf a nice textural finish that lingers until the next bite.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain
instructions adapted from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Pan Gallego de Centeno
Galician Rye Bread

makes one large round loaf

Notes:

• This formula was adapted with major adjustments to the amounts of salt (cut in half) and the baking time (more than doubled). The following formula stays true to the hydration in the original recipe but the instructions were completely revised to use Peter Reinhart’s epoxy method.

For the Soaker:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
dark rye flour                2 1/2 cups      11.25            319
cornmeal                        1/2 cup        2.25             64
salt                            1/2 tbsp
water, room temperature       1 1/4 cups         10            284

Mix the soaker ingredients until evenly hydrated. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

For the Wild Yeast Starter:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
starter (100% hydration)                          4.5          128
bread flour                   3 1/2 cups         15.75         447
water, room temperature           1 scant cup     7.75         220

Mix the wild yeast starter ingredients until a shaggy ball of dough is formed. Knead the wild yeast starter for about 2 minutes or until evenly distributed.

Place the wild yeast starter in a bowl and cover. Let rise at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours or until doubled in size.

Remove the wild yeast starter from the bowl and knead lightly to degas. Return to the bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 3 days. Let the wild yeast starter sit at room temperature for 2 hours before using in the final dough.

Final Dough Formula:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all of the soaker, cut into small pieces
all of the wild yeast starter, cut into small pieces
bread flour                     1/2 cup           2.25          64
salt                            1/2 tbsp
instant yeast                     4 1/2 tsp        .5           14
lard, softened or olive oil       2 tbsp          1             28
caraway seeds                     2 tsp

Final Dough Instructions:

Mix             Mix all of the ingredients until evenly incorporated

Knead           8 to 10 minutes

Rest            5 minutes

Knead           1 minute to further strengthen the gluten

Bulk Ferment    45 to 60 minutes at room temperature in a lightly
                oiled bowl, or until 1 1/2 times its size

Pre-Shape       tear drop shape or a boule with a twisted top

Preshaped Galician Rye dough

Rest            5 minutes

Shape           If pre-shaped into a teardrop, make a round loaf,
                such that the pointed end is on top. If pre-shaped
                into a boule, make a twist in the center to form the
                Galician "cap."

Final Proof     approximately 45 to 60 minutes at room temperature

Preheat Oven    475ºF/246ºC

Will it hold its shape?

Steam           1 cup of boiling water poured in a heavy steam
                pan (preferably cast iron)

Bake            Lower the temperature immediately to 425ºF/218ºC.
                Bake for 25 minutes. Rotate the loaf if necessary
                and lower the heat to 350ºF/177ºC. Bake for another
                30 to 40 minutes, until richly brown on all sides
                and the loaf registers at least 200ºF/93ºC in the
                center.

Cool            At least 2 hours

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pan Gallego de Centeno – Galician Rye Bread

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I had my mind set on having some polvoron for the weekend but didn’t have any powdered milk, a key ingredient. Getting a polvoron fix is serious business for me but I’m not about to run to the nearest Goldilocks (there are none). Good thing I have a recipe for a similar Spanish treat called Polvorones Sevillanos that doesn’t require powdered milk.

Filipino Polvoron and Polvorones Sevillanos are two distinct things but do share similarities other than the name. The Filipino version uses flour toasted in a dry skillet and is pressed in a mold to finish while its Spanish counterpart is shaped into ovals before baking in the oven. The resulting tastes of the shortbread made from these two methods are unsurprisingly different.

Even with the different cooking methods, both share the same crumbly texture and instantly falls apart into a fine powder upon biting. One of my hidden talents is the ability to whistle with a mouthful of polvoron without spewing the buttery powder into someone’s face.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain

Polvorones Sevillanos
Cinnamon Cookies Dusted with Powdered Sugar

makes 20 cookies (approximately 1 ounce each)

8 ounces butter (two sticks), at room temperature
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 cups (9 ounces) whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

sifted powdered sugar, for dusting

Notes:

• The original recipe called for Spanish brandy or Cognac. I’m more of a beer person. Vanilla extract has alcohol so I used that instead. Best. Tip. Ever.
• I used whole wheat pastry flour instead of all-purpose or regular pastry flour. I try to incorporate whole grains anywhere I can even if it doesn’t make sense. It’s not exactly going to transform the sticks of butter into health food in this case.

Instructions:

Cream the butter with a whisk or electric hand mixer until light and fluffy.

Mix the egg yolk with the powdered sugar. Add the vanilla extract. Beat this mixture into the creamed butter.

Start preheating the oven to 300ºF.

Sift the flour with the ground cinnamon. Fold into the butter mixture gently with a spatula just until evenly distributed. Divide the dough into 20 pieces. Shape into ovals with lightly floured hands.

Bake on a cookie sheet or sheet pan for about 30 minutes. The shortbread will spread slightly and should barely get browned.

Cool the cookies briefly for a few minutes. Roll the warm cookies in powdered sugar (the polvorones will be very fragile). The surface of the cookies will end up moistening and absorbing the powdered sugar. Let the polvorones cool completely.

Dust with more powdered sugar to serve.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Polvorones Sevillanos

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5. Chocolate Brownie Cookies
6. Pan de Higo – Spanish Fig Cake

Making quick work of huge disks of sourdough is easy with this well-loved Catalonian procedure for seasoning bread with garlic, tomato, and olive oil. There are hordes of fanatical pa amb tomàquet devotees just about everywhere, so I would think twice about referring to this as Spanish bruschetta.

Pa Amb Tomàquet
Catalan Bread with Tomato

crusty bread, cut into 1/2 to 3/4 inch slices (preferably from a round loaf)
garlic clove
ripe tomatoes
extra virgin olive oil

Lightly toast the bread, just until the crumb is somewhat abrasive. Cut the garlic crosswise and rub the bread with the cut side of the clove. Cut the tomato crosswise and squeeze lightly to remove the seeds and juices. Rub the bread with the tomato. Repeat with the other side if desired.

Drizzle lightly with extra virgin olive oil.

I like topping it with anchovies, thinly sliced Jamón Serrano, or chunks of young Manchego cheese. I consider myself lucky that I live near the only Spanish Deli in Chicago.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pa Amb Tomàquet – Catalan Bread with Tomato

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