Pinipig are flattened and toasted glutinous rice grains, the Southeast Asian equivalent of Kellogg’s corn flakes. Its name probably derives from the root word piga, which is Tagalog for squeeze.

The rice grains for pinipig are harvested while still young and green. Admittedly, I have never seen fresh green pinipig, not even in the Philippines, because it quickly loses color once pounded.

To capture that fresh look, some exporters add a weird hue of neon green coloring. Go for the au naturale variety, even if it is a tad less eye-catching. Wouldn’t you rather keep the food equivalent of silicone implants out of anything you eat?

Toasting reawakens its raw rice fragrance, if only for a short time, so add the pinipig to the cookie dough as soon as they cool down. The shards of sweet rice retain crispness well.

recipe adapted from Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan’s Memories of Philippine Kitchens
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Cook Almost Anything

Pinipig (Young Glutinous Rice Flake) Cookies

makes about 2 dozen cookies

Notes:

• Pinipig is also sold as cốm, its Vietnamese name. Try your luck at groceries that focus on Southeast Asian products.

Directions:

Toast the pinipig. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the pinipig and toast while stirring often for about 5 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant. Spread out the pinipig over a plate and allow to cool completely.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF / 175ºC with racks on the upper third and lower third of the oven. Prepare 2 parchment-lined or lightly greased half-sheet pans or cookie sheets.

Mix the dry ingredients. Place the flour, baking powder, and salt in a container with a tight lid. Cover and shake until thoroughly mixed.

Mix (Creaming Method). Beat the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and continue beating to incorporation. Beat in the lemon zest.

Slowly add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and continue mixing just until smooth and thoroughly incorporated. Gently fold in the cooled pinipig.

Drop. The cookie dough will be very sticky, so use two teaspoons or a small disher. Drop 12 evenly spaced portions for each sheet pan or cookie sheet. Each cookie dough portion is roughly equivalent to 1 heaping teaspoon, about the size of a cherry.

Bake the cookies at 350ºF / 175ºC for 10 to 12 minutes, or until lightly browned around the edges. Let the baked cookies rest on the sheets for a few minutes and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

The scent of rice paddy fields in cookies.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pinipig Cookies

Similar Posts:

1. Pasencia – Filipino Meringue Cookies
2. Indonesian Nutmeg Tea Cookies – Kue Kering
3. Gingersnap Cookies
4. Lenguas de Gato – “Cat’s Tongue” Cookies
5. Chocolate Brownie Cookies
6. Sables à la Poche Cookies

Let’s say you’re browsing a cookbook that represents the recipes of your childhood (in my case, it would probably be this one). You find that one forgotten recipe that gives you pause and makes you wonder why you haven’t made it all these years. Reading through the recipe causes sudden cravings and you know, almost by instinct, exactly how it’s supposed to taste.

Ginataang monggo is one such recipe for me. Enriched with coconut milk, an ingredient used in many Filipino desserts, its distinctive flavor comes from toasted mung beans. It’s a sweet rice-based porridge usually enjoyed around late afternoon to tide you over as dinner is prepared.

This dish reminds me of a Filipino phrase, “nalipasan ng gutom,” meaning, “the hunger has passed.” It describes someone who has gotten used to the pangs of hunger because of going without food for so long, much like getting accustomed to the body odor of an airplane seatmate with questionable hygiene.

Any Filipino mom will tell you that having hunger pass you by is an undesirable state to be in. It leads to crankiness and irrational behavior. Ginataang monggo is one of many treats that keep you sane during that long wait between lunch and dinner.

recipe adapted from Gerry G. Gelle’s Filipino Cuisine: Recipes from the Islands
Monthly Mingle: Ravishing Rice Recipes hosted by Nags

Ginataang Monggo
Toasted Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk

makes about 4 servings

Mung beans, (not yet) sticky rice, and coconut milk.

1/4 cup mung beans (monggo)
one 14 oz can of coconut milk (gata), about 1 3/4 cups
1 cup water
1/2 cup sticky rice (malagkit na kanin), thoroughly washed and drained
1/3 cup granulated sugar, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Notes:

• Sticky rice is also sold as glutinous or sweet rice at your local Asian grocer.

Untoasted and toasted mung beans.

Directions:

1. In a dry skillet over high heat, toast the mung beans until dark brown. Stir or toss continuously to evenly brown the beans.
2. Using a mortar and pestle or rolling pin, gently crush the mung beans with just enough pressure to split in half and dehull. Separate and discard the hulls if desired (I prefer to keep the hulls intact for added texture and nutritional value).
3. Reserve and refrigerate about 1/4 cup of the coconut milk.
4. Pour the remaining coconut milk (about 1 1/2 cups) and 1 cup of water in a saucepan. Add the toasted mung beans and washed rice and bring to a boil. Simmer while uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, just until the rice and beans are thoroughly cooked but still firm. The porridge should have the consistency of loose risotto.
5. Stir in the sugar and salt to incorporation.
6. Serve ginataang monggo hot or cold and top with the reserved coconut milk.

Ginataang monggo – just like how mom used to make.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk

Similar Posts:

1. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
2. Ginataang Kalabasa – Kabocha Squash in Coconut Milk
3. Nasi Uduk – Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice
4. Chicken Adobo in Coconut Milk
5. Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls
6. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans

I was reluctant to try this recipe because morel mushrooms aren’t exactly a dime a dozen. Foraging is not an option because I don’t know any mycologists and there’s always that tiny chance of Death by Shotgun if I unknowingly wander into an ex-convict’s backyard.

A Julie Sahni recipe has never steered me wrong, though, so why not?

All of the spices (cumin, cardamom, cloves, and a cinnamon stick) are left whole so the morels don’t get overwhelmed. The pilaf was very fragrant but more delicate than I expected. The first thing you taste is the morels (thank goodness) along with the natural sweetness of the onions.

recipe adapted from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Cinzia

Badshahi Pulao / Gochian Pulao
The Emperor’s Pilaf / Morel Mushroom Pilaf

makes about 6 to 8 servings

Morel Mushrooms.

Ingredients:

2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained
4 medium onions
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1/2 pound fresh morel mushrooms, halved and cleaned
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
6 whole cardamom pods
6 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick, about 3 inches long
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt

Directions:

1. Place the basmati rice in a bowl. Add 4 cups of cold water and soak for about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the water used for soaking.
2. Slice 2 of the onions into paper-thin slices (this will be used in the next step). Finely chop the remaining 2 onions.
3. Make the Crispy Fried Onions. In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Fry the paper-thin onions until dark brown, about 20 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent the onions from burning. Remove the onions using a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. The onions will crisp as they cool.
4. In the same pan and oil used to fry the onions, add the cumin seeds and cook for a few seconds over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onions and cook until light brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent the onions from burning.
5. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the morel mushrooms and saute for about 3 minutes, until the morels are fragrant. Add the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and bay leaf and continue cooking until the spices are slightly puffed.
6. Stir in the drained basmati rice and cook until the rice is thoroughly coated in oil and lightly browned. Add the reserved soaking water and salt. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.
7. Cover and simmer for about 10 to 15 minutes, until most of the water is absorbed.
8. Reduce the heat to low and let the rice steam for another 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and rest for at least 5 minutes.
9. Sprinkle the crispy fried onions on top as a garnish and serve with grilled or stewed meats or seafood.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Morel Mushroom Pilaf

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1. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
2. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Morel Mushrooms
3. Thai Wild Mushroom Salad
4. Cremini Mushroom Toast
5. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans
6. Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage

Green tea and red rice add more than color and an East Asian twist to this soft bread loaf. Lightly enriched with sugar, butter, and an egg yolk, the subtle tastes of both ingredients pull through along with their many nutritional benefits.

The health benefits of green tea are well-documented, but red rice may be a bit unusual depending on your location. It is mainly used as a natural coloring agent in Chinese cuisine and as a dietary supplement known to control cholesterol. I consider this bread a tasty way to recover from sugar and chocolate eating sprees.

I meant to join Boaz’s Bread Baking Day for colorful breads but it got buried under a ton of unfinished posts. All three of them. I’m blaming all that sugar I’ve been having lately.

recipe adapted from Youko Yamane (in Japanese)
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Green Tea and Red Rice Swirl Bread

makes one 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch loaf

Dough Formula:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all-purpose or bread flour    2 1/3 cups         10.6          300
instant yeast                 1 1/2 tsp            .2            5
granulated sugar                  2 tbsp + 1 tsp  1.1           30
kosher salt                       1 tsp            .1            4
egg yolk                          1                .7           20
water, lukewarm                 2/3 cup           5.6          160
unsalted butter, melted           2 tbsp           .8           24

For the Green Tea and Red Rice Pastes:

1 tablespoon powdered or finely ground green tea leaves + 2 teaspoons hot water
1 tablespoon ground red rice + 2 teaspoons hot water

Instructions:

Mix             Mix all of the ingredients except the green tea and
                red rice pastes until a shaggy ball of dough is formed.

Knead           5 to 6 minutes

Divide          2 pieces

Knead           Smear the green tea and red rice paste to each of the
                two pieces of dough. Continue kneading each piece of
                dough separately until a smooth and pliable ball of
                dough is formed and the pastes are thoroughly
                incorporated, about 5 to 6 minutes.

Bulk Ferment    1 hour at room temperature

Shape           Stretch each piece of dough into a rectangular shape
                and place one on top of the other. Roll tightly
                beginning from the short edge of the rectangle, as
                illustrated in this recipe for Frisian sugar bread.

Preheat Oven    350ºF/175ºC

Final Proof     60 to 90 minutes at room temperature, or until
                almost doubled in size

Bake            Bake for 40 to 50 minutes at 350ºF/175ºC, rotating the
                loaf halfway through baking if necessary.

Cool            At least 30 minutes

Green tea and red rice swirl bread crust.

You are relaxed. You are getting very relaxed.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Green Tea and Red Rice Swirl Bread

Similar Posts:

1. Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls
2. Perfect Brown Rice
3. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk
4. Nasi Uduk – Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice
5. Anadama Bread
6. Five-Grain Walnut Bread

Not getting enough butternut in your risotto? Has this ever happened to you? (Warning: video contains choice words from British chef)

This basic butternut squash risotto recipe comes from a less disgruntled (gruntled?) British chef whose cooking style I really admire. The dish may be simple, but the garnish makes it a bit more interesting.

In addition to the chopped sage cooked slowly with the rice, whole sage leaves are quickly pan-fried and used as a seemingly out-of-place topping. Resist the urge to push the browned herbs to the side of the plate in favor of the bright orange morsels. The crispy sage leaves crumble and release a mellow smokiness that nicely complements the sweet butternut squash and creamy rice.

recipe adapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage Cookbook
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Diary of a Fanatic Foodie

Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage

makes 4 servings

Arborio rice and sage.

For the Butternut Squash Risotto:

2 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken stock, preferably homemade and lightly seasoned
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
a dozen fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
3/4 cup Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano rice, unwashed
8 ounces (about 1 1/2 cups) peeled butternut squash, cut into 1/4-inch dice

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Crispy Sage:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
a dozen fresh sage leaves

For Serving:

Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese

Notes:

• The cooking time will vary depending on the cooking vessel and type of rice you use.
• If short on stock and the rice is still not done to your liking, feel free to use boiling water instead of additional stock.

Instructions:

1. Heat the stock and keep at a gentle simmer over low heat.
2. In a separate heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook while stirring until the onions are translucent. Add the chopped sage leaves and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes, taking care to keep the onions from browning.
3. Add the rice and stir until the grains are well-coated with the olive oil and the outer layers of the grain are slightly translucent.
4. Pour enough stock to barely cover the rice, about 1/2 cup. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon, wiping the sides and bottom of the pot clean while doing so, until the stock is fully absorbed.
5. Add the diced butternut squash along with another 1/2 cup of stock. Continue adding the stock in 1/2-cup increments and stirring as described above, until the butternut squash is soft and the rice is done to the desired level of doneness.

To Serve:

When the risotto is almost done, heat the vegetable oil in a small pan over medium-high heat. Fry the sage leaves quickly, about a few seconds, until dark brown and crispy.

Add the butter and stir until completely melted. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.

Serve immediately in wide platters and top with the crispy sage leaves, with cheese and a grater on the side.

Pan-fried crispy sage leaves.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage

Similar Posts:

1. Butternut Squash Soup – Recipe from Alinea
2. Ginataang Kalabasa – Kabocha Squash in Coconut Milk
3. Morel Mushroom Pilaf
4. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans
5. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
6. Hobakjuk – Korean Pumpkin Porridge

This light Korean snack highlights the chewiness and natural sweetness of sweet rice flour. Boiled until floating, sweet rice balls are really easy to prepare and has endless variations. Dry coatings such as sesame seeds, roasted soybean powder, and cinnamon sugar cling readily to its surface. Gyung dan can also be stuffed with sweet fillings such as red bean paste, as demonstrated in this excellent video by Maangchi.

Plain uncoated rice balls are also extensively used in several sweet and savory applications from all over Asia. My preference by way of heritage is a warm bowl of Filipino ginataan, rice balls and fruits cooked in sweetened coconut milk.

Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Valentina of Trembom

recipe adapted from Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall’s Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen

Gyung Dan
Korean Sweet Rice Balls

makes 16 hazelnut-sized rice balls

Don’t let your parole officer see this.

1 cup sweet rice flour (approximately 160 grams / 5.65 ounces)
a pinch of salt
1/3 to 1/2 cup boiling water

Coatings:

• Black or white sesame seeds, toasted until fragrant and popping (whole or ground)
• Roasted soybean powder
• Cinnamon sugar

Notes:

• Sweet rice flour is also known as glutinous rice flour or mochiko, its Japanese moniker.
• I prefer to use the smaller amount (1/3 cup) of boiling water to make a sandy and crumbly dough. It will be a bit harder to form the balls but the resulting texture is more to my liking — the outside will be soft and gets progressively chewier towards the center.

Instructions:

Mix the sweet rice flour and salt in a bowl. Add the boiling water one tablespoon at time while stirring vigorously. Depending on the texture desired, adjust the amount of water to create either a crumbly or soft dough (see Notes).

Crumbly sweet rice flour dough.

Divide the dough into 16 portions and shape into hazelnut-sized balls.

Bring at least 8 cups of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Prepare a large bowl filled with iced water. The iced water will be used to instantly chill the cooked rice balls and stop the cooking.

Drop the sweet rice balls into the boiling water one at a time. Boil over high heat until the balls float to the surface. It will take about 6 to 10 minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to gather the sweet rice balls as they float to the surface and place in the bowl of iced water.

Place the rice balls on paper towels and let dry briefly for a few minutes. Roll in the toppings of your choice and serve.

Black and blue balls of sweet rice flour.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls

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2. Pickled Ramps, Japanese and Korean Flavors
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4. Sweet Azuki (Red Bean) Paste – East Asian Dessert Introduction
5. Green Tea and Red Rice Swirl Bread
6. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk

My attempt at the Indonesian spice cake called spekkoek was a complete disaster, so weaseling my way into the this month’s edition of WTSIM means that I have to go with Plan B.

There is no Plan B, so let’s see what’s in the fridge:

• Sriracha – Not much use in Indonesian cookery as far as I know.
• Sourdough starters – Can’t remember the last time I fed these. Must feed self first.
• Curdled white goo – A closer look reveals that it’s just yogurt.
• Tempeh – Quintessentially Indonesian, but I don’t feel like frying anything at the moment.
• Lemongrass – We may be on to something here…

Since being Filipino means that I hoard coconut milk cans like squirrels do acorns, I humbly serve a side dish of fragrant nasi uduk, rice steamed with lemongrass and coconut milk. This barebones version suggests an optional parboiling step before steaming, if you ever feel like trying it with brown rice.

Waiter There’s Something In My… Indonesian
hosted by Andrew of Spittoon Extra

recipe adapted from James Oseland’s Cradle of Flavor

Nasi Uduk
Indonesian Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice

makes 4 to 6 servings

Lemongrass and Coconut Milk

2 cups white or brown rice (14 ounces/400 grams), thoroughly rinsed
3 lemongrass stalks
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Notes:

• If using brown rice, parboil for about 10 to 15 minutes in a large pot of boiling water, as if cooking pasta, before continuing with the recipe. The brown rice grains should be slightly softened but still uncooked in the center.

Instructions:

Chop off and discard the bottom inch and bristly tops of the lemongrass. Remove the outer 2-3 layers of the lemongrass stalk. Using a heavy blunt object, bruise the lemongrass stalks lightly, just until flexible enough to tie into knots.

In a lidded saucepan, stir together the rice, lemongrass knots, water, coconut milk, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat while continuously stirring to prevent the bottom from scorching. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting, ensuring that the lemongrass knots are completely immersed in the rice and liquid.

Cover tightly with the lid and cook for 15 minutes over low heat. Remove from the heat and let steam for an additional 10 minutes by keeping the saucepan covered. Taste and adjust the salt if necessary.

Remove and discard the lemongrass knots. Fluff the rice with a fork or spoon and let cool slightly before serving.

The richness of nasi uduk pairs well with the acidity of vinegared Filipino adobos, be it pork, chicken, or beef.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Nasi Uduk – Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice

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1. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk
2. Ginataang Kalabasa – Kabocha Squash in Coconut Milk
3. Chicken Adobo in Coconut Milk
4. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
5. Perfect Brown Rice
6. Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls

When Saveur Magazine calls something perfect, my initial reaction is to just take their word for it and bookmark regardless of subject matter. Whether it’s about poaching or pig’s feet, I trust that the technique or recipe will work, so when Saveur recently published a method for making perfect brown rice, a staple in my kitchen, the issue was dog-eared within seconds of finding the page.

As if cooking pasta, Saveur’s method calls for boiling the rice in a large amount of water. A common practice in Indian rice cookery, this method is nothing new, but to East and Southeast Asians like myself, it’s an unusual idea. I’ve been taught since childhood to steam white rice in just enough water for the grains to absorb and naturally did the same thing when I switched to brown rice.

It took more than a few wasted batches before getting consistently good results with steaming, but Saveur’s boiling method worked perfectly on the first try. Old habits are hard to break, but I was more than willing to embrace such a foolproof approach.

My pride shattered from not figuring out such a simple solution sooner, I am jumping on the chance to one-up Saveur and suggest a much better method for cooking brown rice. My food blogger street cred will skyrocket with this approach.

Or maybe not.

It takes a lot to improve a “perfect” Saveur recipe and I’m not about to tell you to cook the rice with chicken stock and a side of cow. The following recipe still calls for nothing more than the grains and a lot of water but with some extra planning ahead and a bit of temperature control.

Healthy Cooking! hosted by Fun and Food

Let me get a few things out of the way first:

Is it easier?
Nope.

Is it faster?
The cooking time is cut in half, but the rice needs to be prepared at least one day in advance.

What the?
Bear with me.

Is it better for you?
Absolutely.

As you’ve probably guessed by now, my idea of the perfect brown rice involves sprouting or germination before boiling. This process greatly improves the nutritional value of the grains, improves digestibility, and cuts the cooking time in half.

I realize that depending on cultural background and individual preference, your perception of rice cookery nirvana may differ wildly from mine. I know a few people who wouldn’t touch brown rice with a ten-foot pole. A Filipino weaned on white rice for most of his life, it was difficult for me to make the switch. Tastes change, and if we happen to share these preferences then perhaps this can be your side dish of choice as well:

• As opposed to sticky clusters of rice that can be eaten with chopsticks, you prefer light and fluffy grains that barely cling with each other.
• You appreciate the nuttier, more assertive taste of brown rice.
• You don’t mind putting in a bit more time and effort to extract the most nutritional value possible from the grains.

recipe adapted from Saveur Magazine’s “Perfect Brown Rice”
for an alternate method using a hot plate and a dimmer switch, check out this brown rice germination/sprouting tutorial at Instructables

Germinated Brown Rice

short, medium, or long grain brown rice

Notes:

• I usually germinate the rice inside a warm oven along with a batch of homemade yogurt. The oven light is switched on to maintain a temperature of approximately 100ºF, perfect for both brown rice germination and yogurt fermentation.

Wash the rice thoroughly under warm running water. In an appropriately sized container, cover with at least two inches of warm water. The grains will absorb a considerable amount of liquid during germination.

Turn on the oven until the temperature reaches 100ºF. Turn off the oven then switch the light bulb on. Leave the container of rice in the oven for at least 24 hours and up to three days, replacing the soaking liquid with fresh water whenever possible.

Wash the rice thoroughly prior to cooking. Proceed with Saveur Magazine’s method, lessening the boiling time to approximately 15 minutes.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Perfect Brown Rice

Similar Posts:

1. Nasi Uduk – Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice
2. Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls
3. Green Tea and Red Rice Swirl Bread
4. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk
5. Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage
6. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans