Pinipig are flattened and toasted glutinous rice grains, the Southeast Asian equivalent of Kellogg’s corn flakes. Its name probably derives from the root word piga, which is Tagalog for squeeze.

The rice grains for pinipig are harvested while still young and green. Admittedly, I have never seen fresh green pinipig, not even in the Philippines, because it quickly loses color once pounded.

To capture that fresh look, some exporters add a weird hue of neon green coloring. Go for the au naturale variety, even if it is a tad less eye-catching. Wouldn’t you rather keep the food equivalent of silicone implants out of anything you eat?

Toasting reawakens its raw rice fragrance, if only for a short time, so add the pinipig to the cookie dough as soon as they cool down. The shards of sweet rice retain crispness well.

recipe adapted from Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan’s Memories of Philippine Kitchens
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Cook Almost Anything

Pinipig (Young Glutinous Rice Flake) Cookies

makes about 2 dozen cookies

Notes:

• Pinipig is also sold as cốm, its Vietnamese name. Try your luck at groceries that focus on Southeast Asian products.

Directions:

Toast the pinipig. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the pinipig and toast while stirring often for about 5 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant. Spread out the pinipig over a plate and allow to cool completely.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF / 175ºC with racks on the upper third and lower third of the oven. Prepare 2 parchment-lined or lightly greased half-sheet pans or cookie sheets.

Mix the dry ingredients. Place the flour, baking powder, and salt in a container with a tight lid. Cover and shake until thoroughly mixed.

Mix (Creaming Method). Beat the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and continue beating to incorporation. Beat in the lemon zest.

Slowly add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and continue mixing just until smooth and thoroughly incorporated. Gently fold in the cooled pinipig.

Drop. The cookie dough will be very sticky, so use two teaspoons or a small disher. Drop 12 evenly spaced portions for each sheet pan or cookie sheet. Each cookie dough portion is roughly equivalent to 1 heaping teaspoon, about the size of a cherry.

Bake the cookies at 350ºF / 175ºC for 10 to 12 minutes, or until lightly browned around the edges. Let the baked cookies rest on the sheets for a few minutes and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

The scent of rice paddy fields in cookies.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pinipig Cookies

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1. Pasencia – Filipino Meringue Cookies
2. Indonesian Nutmeg Tea Cookies – Kue Kering
3. Gingersnap Cookies
4. Lenguas de Gato – “Cat’s Tongue” Cookies
5. Chocolate Brownie Cookies
6. Sables à la Poche Cookies

Even if the recipe name sounds like a few rounds of word association, there’s nothing disjointed about the flavors in this ice cream. Fresh strawberries are mashed with sugar to draw out its nectar and folded with cheesecake ice cream. The rich custard base is blended with cream cheese and lightened with lemon zest and juice.

It has to involve some form of graham crackers to be called a cheesecake, so I baked small rounds of graham cracker crust and served the ice cream on top.

Let’s make this fun and keep the word association going. Take a look at the most recent entry and think of any word that comes to mind. Please leave a lovely comment (preferably G-rated) and add the word you have just thunk (can be NC-17). Let’s see where it goes.

I’ll start: sandwich.

The April 2009 challenge is hosted by Jenny from Jenny Bakes. She has chosen Abbey’s Infamous Cheesecake as the challenge.

recipe components adapted from Wayne Gisslen’s Professional Baking

Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream
on Graham Cracker Crust Rounds

makes about 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of ice cream
and eight 3-inch graham cracker crust rounds

Self-restraint is a virtue.

Special Equipment:

• an ice cream maker

For the Strawberries:

1 pound fresh strawberries, trimmed and quartered
1/2 cup granulated sugar

Directions:

1. Mash the strawberries with the sugar to the desired level of chunkiness.
2. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before mixing with the cheesecake ice cream.

Time elapsed: 2 hours.

For the Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream:

3 egg yolks
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 1/2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
a pinch of salt

1 pound cream cheese
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice

all of the strawberries

For the Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream Directions:

1. Prepare a double boiler.
2. Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until thick and light. In a saucepan, bring the milk to a gentle simmer. Remove from the heat and slowly add to the egg yolks while stirring.
3. Heat over a double boiler while stirring constantly, just until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
4. Remove immediately from the heat. Stir in the cold cream to stop the cooking, followed by the vanilla extract and salt. Strain using a fine mesh strainer.
5. Cool the custard completely at room temperature. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
6. Using a wooden spoon or the paddle attachment of your stand mixer, beat the cream cheese with the sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice until light and smooth.
7. Slowly add the chilled ice cream base and mix until smooth.
8. Churn, churn, churn.
9. In a large chilled bowl, fold in the sugared strawberries. You can also pour the strawberries directly into the ice cream maker if it can handle the volume.
10. Serve immediately for a soft-serve consistency or store in an airtight container and freeze.

For the Graham Cracker Crust:

Notes:

• The graham cracker crust recipe will be enough for a 9-inch pie pan. Bake for about 10 minutes at the same temperature.

Graham Cracker Crust Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF / 175ºC. Prepare a sheet pan lined with a silicone mat or parchment paper.
2. Mix together the graham cracker crumbs and the sugar. Add the melted butter and continue mixing until well-blended and thoroughly moistened.
3. Divide the graham cracker crumb mixture into 8 equal portions and evenly space on the lined sheet pan. Flatten and tightly pack the crumbs into rounds about 3 inches wide (I used a 3-inch cookie cutter to help shape the crust).
4. Bake at 350ºF / 175ºC for about 8 minutes.
5. Let the graham cracker crust cool completely before removing from the sheet pan.

Ready to go. Where’s the ice cream?

To Serve:

Place a graham cracker crust on a small plate. Set a generous scoop of strawberry cheesecake ice cream on the crust and enjoy.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream

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6. Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

English hot cross buns are scented with allspice and baked with dried currants and candied citrus peel. The buns are traditionally enjoyed for breakfast on Good Friday, but that doesn’t keep me from baking these all year round. It’s ready in about three hours so it’s quick as far as yeast rolls go.

The dough is also an excellent base recipe for pillowy, moist, and lightly sweetened rolls. Even with the cookie-like cross on top, most of the sweetness comes from the additional dried fruits and candied citrus peel. Variations with spicing, fruits, and even nuts makes this recipe an easy way to use up odds and ends from baking other stuff.

The crossing paste is piped right before baking. The cross ends up crisp, much like lemon vanilla cookies, and goes well with the softness of the buns. Most versions I’ve tried are topped with a thick cross of icing after baking and tend to be way too sweet to my liking.

I should mention that the cross adds an agreeable vanilla-citrus crunch and is definitely not just for decoration. I’m thinking of using different extracts and flavorings for the paste, perhaps as an addition to brioche. It’s kind of fun to doodle on dough and bake.

Happy Easter!

recipe adapted from Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog
Bake Your Own Bread

Traditional English Hot Cross Buns

makes 12 buns

Components:

Sponge
Simple Syrup Glaze
Crossing Paste
Hot Cross Bun Dough

Special Equipment:

• A pastry bag
• A #11 or #12 round pastry tip (about 1/4-inch opening)

For the Sponge:

Sponge Directions:

1. Whisk together the warm milk and sugar to dissolve. Add the instant yeast and flour and continue whisking until smooth.
2. Cover and let stand at room temperature for about 30 to 40 minutes, until the sponge is 3 to 4 times its original height. The sponge will be frothy and slightly jiggly.

Mmm yeasty.

For the Simple Syrup Glaze:

Simple Syrup Glaze Directions:

1. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved.
2. The simple syrup can be used as a glaze while still hot or made ahead and refrigerated.

For the Hot Cross Bun Dough:

For the Crossing Paste:

Notes:

• Make the crossing paste just as the shaped rolls are almost done proofing. The paste may stiffen if made too far ahead.

Hot Cross Bun Directions:

Mix. In a large bowl, mix together the flour and softened butter. Add the egg, sugar, salt, and allspice and continue mixing until evenly incorporated. Add the sponge and continue mixing until a shaggy ball of dough is formed.

Knead for 4 to 5 minutes, until the dough is only slightly sticky. Add dried currants or raisins. Fold the dough over itself gently until the dried fruits are evenly distributed in the dough.

Bulk Ferment #1. 30 minutes at room temperature

Lightly knead the dough inside the bowl.

Bulk Ferment #2. 30 minutes at room temperature

Prepare a sheet pan lined with a silicone mat or parchment paper.

Divide. 12 pieces

Shape. tight round rolls

Final Proof. 60 minutes at room temperature, or until about 1 1/2 times its original size

Preheat Oven. 440ºF / 225ºC

Make the Crossing Paste. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the sugar and mix thoroughly (the sugar won’t be completely dissolved at this point).

Remove from the heat. Add the milk, vanilla extract, lemon zest, and egg. Continue whisking until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the sifted flour and mix only until a smooth paste is formed.

Pipe the Crossing Paste. Use a round pastry tip with a 1/4-inch opening. Pipe the paste after the dough is done proofing and right before baking.

Bake for 14 to 16 minutes at 440ºF / 225ºC, until the buns are well browned and the crossing paste is lightly colored.

Glaze. Brush with the simple syrup glaze immediately after removing from the oven.

Serving / Reheating. This just in: hot cross buns are best when fresh and served hot. Reheat day-old buns at 350ºF / 175ºC for about 6 minutes before serving.

This is a first. Half the buns are usually gone in the time it takes to shoot a camera.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Hot Cross Buns Recipe

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2. Challah Recipe from The New York Times
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6. Irish Soda Bread Recipe

Gotta love it when experiments in the kitchen turn out great. I’ve always wanted to do some sort of ice cream cake. With the chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream recipes featured in this month’s Daring Bakers challenge, I came up with this idea. From top to bottom:

• Flourless chocolate cake moistened with Kirschwasser (German “cherry water” brandy)
• A thin layer of pureed cherry preserves
• Plain vanilla ice cream
• Frozen liquid sablé crust

If the frozen liquid sablé crust sounds weird, that’s because it’s borrowed from the Alinea cookbook. You won’t need to sneak into a laboratory and steal a tank of liquid nitrogen, though. The sablé crust is actually pretty straightforward.

The sandy textured frozen crust starts off as a normal shortbread made with a bit of almond flour. The baked sablé is then blended with oil, poured into a springform pan, and frozen to kickstart the bottom-up cake assembly.

The February 2009 challenge is hosted by Wendy of WMPE’s blog and Dharm of Dad ~ Baker & Chef. We have chosen a Chocolate Valentino cake by Chef Wan; a Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from Dharm and a Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from Wendy as the challenge.

frozen liquid sablé recipe adapted from Grant Achatz’s Alinea

Chocolate Cherry Vanilla Ice Cream Cake on a Frozen Liquid Sablé Crust

makes one 8-inch ice cream cake

Components:

Flourless Chocolate Cake
Kirschwasser Simple Syrup (optional)
Pureed Cherry Preserves
Vanilla Ice Cream
Frozen Liquid Sablé Crust

Special Equipment:

• 8-inch springform cake pan
• ice cream maker
• weighing scale (optional)
• digital thermometer (optional)

For the Flourless Chocolate Cake:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
semisweet chocolate, chopped                     16            454
unsalted butter         1/2 cup + 2 tbsp          5            142
whites from large eggs            5
yolks from large eggs             5

Flourless Chocolate Cake Instructions:

Preheat Oven    375ºF / 190ºC

Prepare an 8-inch springform cake pan by greasing with butter and
lining with a parchment circle.

Melt the Chocolate
                Put the chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl. Set
                over a pan of simmering water and melt while stirring
                often. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the
                water.

Mix             Put the egg yolks and egg whites in separate bowls.

                Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks (do not over-whip or
                the cake will be dry).

                With the same beater, beat the egg yolks together. Add
                the egg yolks to the cooled chocolate and mix with a
                rubber spatula until smooth.

                Fold in 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture.
                Follow with remaining egg whites and fold gently only
                until the white streaks disappear.

Pan             Pour the cake batter into the prepared springform pan.
                The batter should fill the pan about 3/4 of the way full.
                Place the cake pan on a cookie sheet or sheet pan.

                Level and bake immediately.

Bake            375ºF / 190ºC for 25 minutes, or until a digital
                thermometer reads 140ºF / 60ºC.

                If you do not have a digital thermometer, the top of the
                cake will look similar to a brownie and a cake tester
                will appear wet.

Cool            Cool the cake on a wire rack for about 10 minutes
                before unmolding.

Baked flourless chocolate cake.

For the Kirschwasser Simple Syrup (optional):

2 tablespoons simple syrup
splash of Kirschwasser

For the Vanilla Ice Cream:

2 cups / 473 ml heavy cream
1 cup / 237 ml whole milk
2/3 cup / 134 grams granulated sugar
pinch of salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Vanilla Ice Cream Instructions:

1. In a heavy saucepan, heat the heavy cream, milk, sugar, and salt to a bare simmer over medium-low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
2. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla extract.
3. Cool completely at room temperature. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
4. Churn to a soft consistency after making the frozen liquid sablé crust.

For the Frozen Liquid Sablé Crust:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all-purpose flour           1 scant cup           4.1          118
almond flour                      5 tbsp          1.4           39

unsalted butter, at room temp   1/4 cup           2.0           57
granulated sugar                  3 tbsp          1.3           38
salt                            1/4 tsp
egg yolk                          1      

vegetable oil                     6 tbsp          2.8           80

Frozen Liquid Sablé Crust Instructions:

Mix             Sift together the all-purpose and almond flours.

                In a separate bowl, mix together the butter, sugar,
                and salt with a rubber spatula until smooth. Add the
                egg yolk and continue mixing until well-blended.

                Slowly add the flours and continue mixing only until
                a dough is formed. Cover tightly with plastic wrap.

Refrigerate     At least 1 hour

Preheat Oven    350ºF / 175ºC

Prepare a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or silicone.

Roll Out        Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface
                and roll out until about 1/4 inch thick.

Bake            20 minutes, until golden brown

Prepare an 8-inch springform cake pan lined with plastic wrap.

Blend           Break the the baked sablé into small pieces and place
                in a blender along with half of the vegetable oil.
                Blend on high speed while drizzling the remaining
                vegetable oil.

Freeze the Sablé
                Pour the liquefied sablé into the lined springform pan.
                Freeze for at least 1 hour or until thoroughly set.

Liquefied almond shortbread, ready to freeze.

Chocolate Cherry Vanilla Ice Cream Cake Assembly:

Freeze the Ice Cream
                Place the churned ice cream on top of the frozen liquid
                sablé and level. Freeze for at least 1 hour or until
                thoroughly set.

Fill            Unmold the frozen ice cream cake and place on a serving
                plate. Apply a thin layer of pureed cherry preserves,
                about 6 tablespoons.

To Finish       Moisten the flourless chocolate cake by lightly brushing
                with the Kirschwasser simple syrup, if using. Set the
                chocolate cake on top of the ice cream.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Chocolate Cherry Vanilla Ice Cream Cake

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Preparing a Tarte Tatin in this way guarantees a crisp and flaky crust. Unlike traditional Tarte Tatin recipes, the puff pastry crust is baked separately from the caramelized apples. The basket-shaped puff pastry crust is made ahead of time and filled right before serving.

In addition to looking spiffier than the typical brown disk, I think this method is also easier and more foolproof. Unmolding a traditional Tarte Tatin can end in disaster if it decides to remain glued to the skillet. Still delicious, but not pretty.

A vol-au-vent is a hollow puff pastry shell meant to contain a sweet or savory filling. Vol-au-vents tend to be more diminutive in scale than this 8-inch tart and are usually served in appetizer or hors d’oeuvre form. French for “flight of the wind,” the puff pastry crust lives up to its name as a light and airy nest for the golden brown apples and buttery caramel.

recipe adapted from Sherry Yard’s Desserts by the Yard

Tarte Tatin in Vol-au-Vents

makes two 8-inch Tarte Tatins, about 8 servings

Ingredients:

two 8-inch puff pastry squares, preferably all-butter
one lightly beaten egg (for egg wash)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
6 apples, peeled, split in half lengthwise, cored, and quartered
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Notes:

• Until I mess around with homemade puff pastry, I’ll be using Trader Joe’s all-butter puff pastry. Containing two 8-inch squares (with a bit of trimming), additional rolling is unnecessary for this recipe. Less rolling = more puff.
• The original recipe recommends Fuji apples.

Puff Pastry Crust Directions:

Preheat Oven    400ºF / 205ºC with a rack in the middle of the oven

Prepare a half-sheet pan or cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.

Shape the Puff Pastry
                Using a paring knife, cut a 3/4-inch frame around the
                puff pastry, such that 2 opposing corners are still
                attached to the center.

                Lift one unattached corner and fold to the opposing
                corner.

                Repeat with the opposing unattached corner to finish.

Dock            Using a fork, prick or dock the center of the puff
                pastry (Trader Joe's puff pastry comes pre-docked).

Glaze           Glaze the tops of the borders with the lightly beaten
                egg. Keep the egg wash from dripping down the sides to
                allow the pastry crust to fully rise in the oven.

Bake            400ºF / 205ºC for 15 minutes. Lower the heat to
                350ºF / 175ºC, rotate the baking sheet, and bake for
                another 15 to 20 minutes, until the puff pastry crust
                is well-browned.

Cool            Let the puff pastry crust cool completely on a wire
                rack before filling.

Caramelized Apple Filling Directions and Tarte Tatin Assembly:

1. Make the Caramelized Apple Filling. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Continue cooking the butter until lightly browned. Remove from the heat and sprinkle the sugars evenly on the skillet. Arrange the apples in a tight circular pattern on the skillet, cut side down.
2. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and cook for about 12 minutes. Using tongs or a spatula, turn the apples onto the other cut side and cook for another 12 to 15 minutes, until the apples are a deep golden brown.
3. Remove the apples, leaving the caramel in the skillet. Add the heavy cream, if using, and the lemon juice to the caramel. Lower the heat to medium-low and whisk continuously to deglaze. Cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the caramel is thickened and warm.
4. Assemble the Tarte Tatin. Place rows of apples in the puff pastry, about eight to twelve slices for each puff pastry crust.
5. Spoon the caramel over the apples or serve on the side. Slice the Tarte Tatin into serving portions and serve while still warm.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Tarte Tatin in Vol-au-Vents

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Flavors don’t have to be big and bold all the time. Subtlety has its merits but when using rose essence, a light hand is very necessary. It can easily turn the simplest desserts into a mouthful of potpourri — you don’t want to end up with food more appropriate in the bathroom than on a dinner table.

Rose water is available in Indian and Middle Eastern grocery stores. I found a French version (photo below) in a local gourmet shop for a reasonable price. It is primarily used in desserts and sweet cold drinks.

Rose water accentuates. Its barely-there presence perfumes crave-worthy treats such as gulab jamun and Turkish Delight. You may also find it as an optional ingredient in madeleines and marzipan.

recipe adapted from Godiva

Chocolate Rose Water Ganache Tart

makes one 9- or 10-inch tart, about 6 to 8 servings

For the Chocolate Tart Dough:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all-purpose flour             1 1/3 cups          6.0          170
unsweetened cocoa powder          6 tbsp          1.3           36
salt                          pinch

unsalted butter, softened        12 1/2 tbsp      6.2          177
granulated sugar                  7 tbsp          3.1           88
large egg yolk                    1
heavy cream                   1 1/2 tsp

Equipment:

• 9- or 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

Chocolate Tart Dough Instructions:

Mix             Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, and salt.

                In a separate bowl, mix together the butter and sugar
                with a rubber spatula only until thoroughly
                incorporated. Add the egg yolk and cream and continue
                mixing until well-blended.

                Add the flour and cocoa powder mixture and continue
                mixing only until the dough is thoroughly moistened.

                Turn onto a lightly floured work surface and shape
                into a disc. Cover tightly with plastic wrap.

Refrigerate     At least 1 hour

Roll Out        Let the tart dough warm for about 10 to 15 minutes at
                room temperature, until malleable but still slightly
                chilled.

                On a lightly floured work surface, dust the top of the
                tart dough with flour. Using a rolling pin, roll once
                from the center and away from you and once again from
                the center towards you. 

                Rotate the dough one-eighth of a turn and keep rolling
                in this manner to maintain a round shape. The tart
                should be about 12 to 13 inches in diameter and 1/8 of
                an inch thick.

Line Tart Pan   Chill the tart dough if it seems too soft to handle.

                Gently lay the rolled dough in the tart pan and begin
                flattening from the center towards the sides. Ensure
                that the dough is in full contact with the pan to
                minimize air pockets.

                Flare out excess tart dough and pass a rolling pin
                over the top to trim the edges.

Refrigerate     At least 30 minutes

Preheat Oven    350ºF / 175ºC

Blind Bake      350ºF / 175ºC for 18 to 22 minutes, until the tart
                crust is dry to the touch. Let the crust cool
                completely before filling with the ganache.

For the Chocolate Rose Water Ganache:

9 ounces / 255 grams semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
pinch of salt
1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 tablespoons rose water

Chocolate Rose Water Ganache Directions and Tart Assembly:

1. Combine chocolate, butter, corn syrup, and salt in a bowl. In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to boil over medium-high heat. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate mixture.
2. Using a rubber spatula, stir gently in a circular motion from the center and work your way outwards. Stir in the rose water.
3. Pour the warm ganache in the cooled tart crust. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until the ganache is set but still shiny.
4. Cut into wedges and serve with fresh raspberries.

Bow shika wow wow.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Chocolate Rose Water Ganache Tart

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Flan de Naranja is a light and silky custard dessert topped with soft caramel. Instead of milk or cream, this recipe uses freshly squeezed orange juice brightened with its own zest.

This light, dare I say healthy, flan recipe is also as easy as custard desserts get. There is no need to precook the custard, which means there’s zero chance of screwing up and ending with orange-flavored scrambled eggs.

The trickiest part is making the caramel. I’m hoping that rendering a few pounds of sugar inedible for the sake of testing means that I’m somewhat qualified to give a few tips on caramelizing.

recipe adapted from Penelope Casas’ The Foods and Wines of Spain

Flan de Naranja
Orange Custard

makes 4 servings

Equipment:

4 six-ounce ramekins
a bain-marie / water bath (a 9 x 13-inch baking dish filled with hot water)

For the Caramel:

1/2 cup granulated sugar
4 teaspoons water
2 teaspoons corn syrup (optional)

For the Orange Custard:

6 large eggs
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 1/3 cups freshly squeezed orange juice (about 4 to 5 oranges)
1 teaspoon orange zest

Notes:

• Why add corn syrup to the caramel? Adding corn syrup prevents the caramel from crystallizing.
• To caramelize the syrup evenly, a bit of agitation is needed. Swirling the pan gently instead of stirring keeps the syrup from turning into a sandy mess.

Caramel Directions:

1. In a small skillet, mix together the sugar, water, and corn syrup (if using). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Start swirling the syrup gently (don’t stir) and continue cooking until the caramel is amber-colored.
2. Immediately pour the caramel into the 4 ramekins to coat the bottom evenly. Let the caramel set and cool completely before making the custard.

Orange Custard Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 325ºF / 165ºC.
2. Make the orange custard. Lightly beat the eggs with a fork until light-colored, taking care to minimize the amount of air incorporated into the eggs. Add the sugar and continue beating while pouring in the orange juice. Strain. Add the orange zest and stir.
3. Prepare the bain-marie/water bath. Place cloth or paper towels in an empty 9×13-inch baking dish (this helps insulate the bottom of the ramekins from excessive heat). Set the ramekins on the towels and distribute the custard evenly. Place in the preheated oven and carefully pour enough hot water in the baking dish to at least the same level as the custard.
4. Bake at 325ºF / 165ºC for 45 to 55 minutes, until the custard is set in the center. A wooden skewer inserted in the center of the custard should come out clean. Remove from the bain-marie/water bath and let cool at room temperature. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
5. To serve, run a thin-bladed knife around the custard edge and invert on a plate to unmold. Some of the caramel will remain stuck to the bottom of the ramekins.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Flan de Naranja – Orange Custard

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If there is one cookie I’ve had the most of in sheer volume alone, pasencia cookies would easily top the list. This is one of those things you mindlessly snack on while reading a book or waiting for dinner to get done.

This recipe is an easy way to use up those pesky small amounts of leftover egg whites. For larger amounts of about a dozen whites, angel food cake comes to mind. I have yet to see a killer egg white omelet recipe, not that I’ve been actively looking for such a thing.

These fat-free meringue cookies are light and crisp with a hint of vanilla. It’s a lot like making French macarons but instead of almond flour, we use plain old wheat flour.

Pasencia Recipe – Filipino Meringue Cookies

makes about 36 bite-sized cookies

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all-purpose flour               1/4 cup           1.1           30
confectioner's sugar            1/2 cup           2.1           60

whites from large eggs            2               2.1           60
lemon juice                     1/2 tsp
vanilla extract              splash
granulated sugar                  2 tbsp          1.1           30

Special Equipment:

• A pastry bag
• A plain round pastry tip (about 1/4- to 1/2-inch opening)

Notes:

• Have all of the ingredients at room temperature before continuing.
• You can also replace the lemon juice with 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar.

Directions:

Preheat Oven    275ºF / 135ºC

Prepare a half-sheet pan or cookie sheet lined with parchment
paper or silicone.

Mix (Sponge Process - Meringue Method)
                Sift together 1/2 cup of confectioner's sugar and
                flour. Set aside until needed.

                In a clean bowl, whip the egg whites until frothy.
                Add the lemon juice, vanilla extract, and granulated
                sugar. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks.

                Using a wide rubber spatula, fold in the sifted flour
                and confectioner's sugar.

                Continue folding until the flour and sugar are
                thoroughly absorbed and the meringue is smooth and
                glossy. When tilting the bowl, the meringue should
                move sluggishly.

Pipe            Deposit the batter into a pastry bag fitted with a
                round pastry tip (about 1/4- to 1/2-inch opening).

                With the pastry tip perpendicular to the sheet pan,
                pipe 3/4-inch rounds spaced about 1 inch apart.

Bake            275ºF / 135ºC for 22 to 26 minutes, or until the edges
                of the cookies turn light brown.

Cool            Let the cookies cool for at least 15 minutes before
                removing from the sheet pan. The cookies will be
                fragile while warm but will crisp as they cool.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pasencia – Filipino Meringue Cookies

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Marcella Hazan reassures in her trademark impassioned tone, “Only an active campaign of sabotage could ruin it,” as if to say, “You can’t possibly screw this up, you donkey.” With that in mind, I’ve never had as much confidence in trying out a new recipe.

She insists on using Bosc or Anjou pears and singles out Bartlett pears as a mediocre choice. Even with that little tidbit, this pear tart recipe still ranks high on my list of Unfussy and Easy Recipes with High Payoff. It’s the first thing I think of whenever pears are in season.

Before baking, do top with the optional cloves, or failing that, maybe a cinnamon stick or two. The addition of whole spices adds so much with so little effort.

recipe adapted from Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

“A Farm Wife’s Fresh Pear Tart”

makes one 9-inch tart, about 6 servings

Bosc, Red Anjou, and Green Anjou Pears

Equipment:

a 9-inch round cake pan, greased with butter and dusted lightly with bread crumbs

Ingredients:

2 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1 cup granulated sugar
pinch of salt
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 pounds fresh pears, preferably Bosc or Anjou (about 5 to 6)

butter for dotting the tart
12 whole cloves (optional)

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 375ºF/190ºC with a rack in the upper third of the oven.
2. Peel the pears, cut in half lengthwise, and core to remove the seeds. Slice the pear halves into thin slivers.
3. Beat the eggs and milk in a bowl. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt and continue beating until well-blended.
4. Add the flour to the eggs and milk. Mix to form a thick cake batter.
5. Add the pears to the batter and mix gently until the slices are evenly coated. Deposit the batter in the greased and dusted cake pan.
6. Top evenly with small pieces of butter and whole cloves (if using).
7. Bake at 375ºF/190ºC for about 50 minutes, or until the top is well-browned.
8. Let the pear tart cool in the pan for at least 15 minutes before unmolding.
9. Remove and discard the whole cloves (if using) before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Easy Pear Tart Recipe

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This contemporary version of Bûche de Noël is the perfect opportunity to make something extra festive for Christmas. Instead of a roulade and buttercream icing in the traditional French yule log, this modern take is composed of a silky mousse layered with crème brûlée and crispy chocolate praline.

I decided to set the entire mousse cake on chocolate biscuit, a thin sponge cake layer, because I thought it resembled terra firma. The chocolate mousse is also complemented with minty elements — the crème brûlée insert is infused with mint and the chocolate biscuit is brushed with a simple mint syrup.

The measurements in the recipe that follows are in metric weights. All of it. I thought of converting everything to volume and imperial measures like I usually do but take a peek at the recipe and I’m sure you’ll understand. If you don’t own one already, may I recommend this fine weighing scale?

All of the Bûche de Noël components are scaled for a 13-inch half pipe mold, which is about the same size as a roll of aluminum foil. It’s difficult to work with such small amounts, but at the very least, the waste is minimal (resulting in less mindless snacking).

The Daring Bakers: Bûche de Noël / French Yule Log
hosted by Hilda and Marion

recipes for components adapted from Florilege Gourmand, Wayne Gisslen’s Professional Baking, and Michel Suas’ Advanced Bread and Pastry

Chocolate Mint Mousse Bûche de Noël / French Yule Log

makes one 13-inch cake

Components:

Mint Crème Brûlée Insert
Gavottes / Pailleté Feuilletine
Praliné Feuilleté au Chocolat / Crispy Chocolate Praline Layer
Chocolate Mousse
Mint Syrup
Chocolate Biscuit
Chocolate Ganache
Chocolate Glaçage

Notes:

• Use 64 to 85 percent for bittersweet chocolate.

Special Equipment:

• 13-inch Bûche de Noël mold
• weighing scale
• digital thermometer

For the Mint Crème Brûlée Insert:

Ingredients                     Grams
powdered gelatin                    2
cold water                         10
whole milk                          8
heavy cream                        61
fresh mint leaves, chopped         20
granulated sugar                   22
egg yolks                          16

Mint Crème Brûlée Insert Directions:

1. Line the bottom of the Bûche de Noël mold with parchment.
2. Bloom the powdered gelatin in the cold water.
3. Bring the milk and heavy cream to a boil and remove from the heat, Add the mint, cover, and infuse for 30 minutes.
4. Strain into a bowl set on your weighing scale. Add additional heavy cream to rescale the mixture to its original weight  (69 grams).
5. In a small saucepan, bring the infused cream and half of the sugar to a boil. Remove from the heat.
6. Mix the remaining sugar with the egg yolks.
7. Temper the egg yolks with about one-third of the infused cream.
8. Return the tempered mixture to the saucepan. Heat the liquid to 180ºF / 82ºC.
9. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer or chinois.
10. Add the bloomed gelatin and stir until thoroughly incorporated.
11. Pour into the parchment-lined Bûche de Noël mold and freeze. Remove from the mold and store in the freezer.

For the Gavottes / Pailleté Feuilletine:

Ingredients                     Grams
whole milk                         40
unsalted butter                     4
all-purpose flour                  18
egg, beaten                         8
granulated sugar                    2

Gavottes / Pailleté Feuilletine Directions:

1. Heat the milk and butter together until butter is completely melted. Remove from the heat.
2. Sift flour into milk-butter mixture while beating, add egg and granulated sugar. Make sure there are no lumps.
3. Grease a baking sheet and spread batter thinly over it.
4. Bake at 430°F / 220°C for a few minutes until the crepe is golden and crispy. Let cool.

For the Praliné Feuilleté au Chocolat / Crispy Chocolate Praline Layer:

Ingredients                     Grams
milk chocolate, chopped            35
unsalted butter, room temp          9
praline                            11
gavottes / pailleté feuilletine    21

Praliné Feuilleté au Chocolat / Crispy Chocolate Praline Layer Directions:

1. Melt the milk chocolate and butter in a double boiler.
2. Add the praline and the coarsely crushed gavottes / pailleté feuilletine. Mix quickly to thoroughly coat with the chocolate.
3. Spread a 1.5- by 13-inch layer between two sheets of wax paper. Refrigerate until hard.

For the Chocolate Mousse:

Ingredients                     Grams
powdered gelatin                    3
cold water                         15
granulated sugar                   27
glucose or light corn syrup         7
water                              10
egg yolks                          33
heavy cream #1                     20
bittersweet chocolate             116
heavy cream #2                    212

Chocolate Mousse Directions:

1. Bloom the powdered gelatin in cold water.
2. Make a pâte à bombe.
   Beat the egg yolks until very light in colour (approximately 5 minutes until almost white).
   Cook the sugar, glucose, and water on medium heat for approximately 3 minutes (if you have a candy thermometer, the mixture should reach 244°F / 118°C. If you do not have a candy thermometer, test the sugar temperature by dipping the tip of a knife into the syrup then into a bowl of ice water, if it forms a soft ball in the water then you have reached the correct temperature).
   Add the sugar syrup to the beaten yolks carefully by pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream while continuing to beat the yolks. You can do this by hand but it’s easier to do this with an electric mixer.
   Continue beating until cool (approximately 5 minutes). The batter should become thick and foamy.
3. In a double boiler, heat heavy cream #1 (20 grams). Add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth.
4. Whip heavy cream #2 (212 grams) until stiff.
5. Pour the melted chocolate over the softened gelatin, mixing well. Let the gelatin and chocolate cool slightly and then stir in about one-third of the whipped cream to temper. Add the pâte à bombe.
6. Add in the rest of the whipped cream and mix gently with a spatula.

For the Mint Syrup:

Ingredients                     Grams
granulated sugar                   35
water                              49
fresh mint leaves, chopped          7

Mint Syrup Directions:

1. In a small saucepan, bring the granulated sugar and water to a boil.
2. Add the fresh mint leaves and immediately remove from the heat.
3. Let the mint infuse for at least 15 minutes. Strain and discard the mint leaves.

For the Chocolate Biscuit:

Ingredients                     Grams
pastry flour                       20
cocoa powder                       20

egg yolks                          36
eggs                               82
sugar #1                           65

egg whites                         52
sugar #2                           26

Chocolate Biscuit Directions:

Preheat Oven    400ºF / 205ºC

Prepare a half-sheet pan lined with parchment paper or silicone mat

Mix (Separated Egg Sponge Method)
                Sift together the pastry flour and cocoa powder.

                Whip the egg yolks, whole eggs, and sugar #1 to the
                ribbon stage. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites
                and sugar #2 to soft-medium peaks.

                Add the meringue to the egg yolk foam in 2 to 3
                installments. Fold in the sifted pastry flour and
                cocoa powder only until absorbed.

Pan             Deposit the batter into the lined sheet pan and
                spread evenly. 

Bake            400ºF / 205ºC for about 9 minutes, or until the edges
                are slightly dark brown.

Cool            Immediately transfer to a wire rack and let the
                cake cool completely at room temperature.

Finishing       Brush with mint syrup (preceding recipe).

For the Chocolate Ganache:

Ingredients                     Grams
heavy cream                        50
bittersweet chocolate, chopped     50
unsalted butter, room temp          8

For the Chocolate Glaçage:

Ingredients                     Grams
heavy cream                        50
bittersweet chocolate, chopped     50
unsalted butter, room temp         17

Chocolate Ganache and Chocolate Glaçage Instructions:

1. In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil and immediately remove from the heat.
2. Cool to 190ºF / 88ºC and immediately pour over the chopped chocolate. Let rest for about a minute.
3. Using a rubber spatula, stir gently in a circular motion from the center and work your way outwards as an emulsion is formed.
4. Once the chocolate cools to 95ºF / 35ºC, add the butter and continue stirring gently just until the butter is thoroughly incorporated. The finished emulsion should be shiny and smooth.
5. Use immediately for best results.

Crispy chocolate praline layer and mint crème brûlée insert

Chocolate Mint Bûche de Noël Assembly:

Line the bottom of the Bûche de Noël mold with parchment.

Pipe one third of the mousse component into the mold. Take the mint crème brûlée insert out of the freezer at the last second and set on top of the mousse. Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.

Pipe second third of the mousse component around and on top of the mint crème brûlée insert. Cut the crispy chocolate praline layer to a size slightly smaller than your mold so that it can be surrounded by mousse. Lay it on top of the mousse you just piped into the mold.

Pipe the last third of the mousse component on top of the crispy chocolate praline layer. Level and freeze for a few hours to set.

Lightly dust the chocolate biscuit with confectioner’s sugar. Apply a strip of chocolate ganache to serve as the base for the Bûche de Noël log.

Unmold the frozen bûche de noël and place on a wire rack. Lightly dust with cocoa powder and apply the chocolate glaçage. Set on top of the chocolate ganache and refrigerate until ready to serve.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Chocolate Mint Bûche de Noël

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