Any mention of oxtails in Filipino food probably involves kare-kare, a rich peanut-based vegetable stew. Beef shanks, tripe, pork hocks, and other tough parts tenderized through long simmering may also be added, but it has to have the oxtails. Leaving the bony segments out is unacceptable. Hindi maaari (no frickin’ way).

I didn’t have the other dozen ingredients for kare-kare so I made adobo for dinner instead. Adobo is an indigenous Filipino method of simmering in vinegar, akin to pickling. Food spoils rather quickly in oppressive tropical heat so this is our way of dealing with that little dilemma. We take the vinegared stuff seriously regardless of the weather forecast, though.

The sourness also supposedly stimulates your appetite during hot and humid weather, not that I’ve had any such craving-related problems lately.

The following recipe makes a light broth meant to be served like a soup, in contrast to versions enriched with coconut milk. Before serving, grill or broil the oxtails to crisp up the fatty bits. Silky and tender is great, but that additional hint of smoke can only make it better.

Oxtail Adobo Recipe
Adobong Buntot ng Baka

makes 4 servings

Meet datu, my spear-wielding ancestor. He likes loincloths and long walks on the beach.

Ingredients:

2 to 3 pounds oxtail, segmented
1/2 cup vinegar, preferably cane or cider vinegar
1/2 cup soy sauce
8 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon whole peppercorns
2 to 3 bay leaves

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

1. In a large pot, place the oxtails, vinegar, soy sauce, garlic cloves, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Pour in enough water to cover the oxtails.
2. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for about 2 hours, replenishing the water as necessary to keep the oxtails fully immersed.
3. Tilt the pot and skim the rendered fat, if desired.
4. Prepare a grill or preheat a broiler. Remove the oxtails from the broth. Grill or broil the oxtails until well-browned and slightly crisped. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve with warm rice and a small bowl of the adobo broth.

Oxtail adobo, pre-incineration. You go eww, I go ooh.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Oxtail Adobo

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Famous for dishes that highlight quinto quatro, the “fifth quarter” or oft-ignored parts of an animal, Rome sounds like my kind of town. Alla vaccinara is old Roman for “butcher’s style” and no other cut could be more appropriate for such a designation than oxtail. Unappealing to most, a butcher would know that when properly prepared, oxtail can be much more enjoyable than pricey ribeye or tenderloin.

Unlike other offal that hide behind cutesy names (sweetbreads for thymus glands, adidas for chicken feet, rocky mountain oysters for uh, cow “berries,” and soup number 5 for see preceding item), oxtail is exactly what it sounds like. It is, in fact, the tail of an ox-slash-cow, so unless there’s a nuclear spill nearby, there’s only one small sliver per beast. I’m convinced, however, that the neighborhood meat counters rarely carry oxtail not because of low supply, but because the white-clad guys behind the counter keep it for themselves.

Until the day the vaccinari hones a cleaver and gets its hands on the vacca, the oxtail wags away happily while shielding sensitive bovine parts from the harsh elements and inappropriate bulls gone wild. Since oxtail gets quite the workout, in addition to being bony, the meat that it does have is Schwarzenegger-tough. The adage goes, “The closer to the bone, the sweeter the meat,” and it couldn’t be more true for oxtail. Slowly simmered for hours in an aromatic base of tomatoes and white wine, a rich broth is produced from the bones and the tough meat is coaxed into silky tenderness.

recipe adapted from Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

Coda alla Vaccinara
Roman Braised Oxtail, Butcher’s Style

makes 4 to 6 servings

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic
2/3 cup diced onions
2/3 cup diced carrots

2 1/2 pounds oxtail, severed at each joint
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
1/2 cup diced plum tomatoes

salt and black pepper, to taste

1 1/2 cups chopped celery

Notes:

• Coda alla Vaccinara is best made at least a day in advance. The rendered oxtail fat will also be much easier to remove if refrigerated before serving (see“if preparing ahead of time”).
• Add 1/4 pound of diced pancetta to the soffritto (sauteed aromatics) for a richer base.

To Prepare the Soffritto:

In a wide saute pan or enameled dutch oven, combine the olive oil, parsley, garlic, onion, and carrots. Place over medium heat and saute for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. The onions should be slightly translucent and the garlic pale gold.

Italian Cooking 101: The Soffritto – saute the parsley, onions, garlic, and carrots in extra virgin olive oil

To Braise the Oxtail:

Push the soffritto base to the sides of the pan. Increase the heat to medium high and add the oxtail to the middle of the pan. Turn the oxtail pieces until lightly browned on all sides, about 4 to 6 minutes.

Add the wine and simmer for about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and 1 cup water. The oxtail should be about halfway immersed after adding the water. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover and braise for 1 1/2 hours.

Add the chopped celery and stir thoroughly with the other ingredients. Cover and simmer for another 45 minutes, or until the oxtail meat is tender and almost falling off the bone.

cooling the braised oxtails

If serving immediately:

Tip the pan and skim as much of the fat as possible.

If preparing ahead of time:

Let the coda alla vaccinara cool to room temperature while uncovered. Cover and refrigerate overnight, for up to 3 days. Once thoroughly chilled, the rendered oxtail fat will congeal on top and is easily removable with a spoon. Remove the fat and reheat gently over medium heat to serve.

La Cucina Italiana – Authentic Italy hosted by Meeta of What’s for Lunch, Honey?

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Coda alla Vaccinara – Eat Like a Roman Butcher

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