Let’s say you’re browsing a cookbook that represents the recipes of your childhood (in my case, it would probably be this one). You find that one forgotten recipe that gives you pause and makes you wonder why you haven’t made it all these years. Reading through the recipe causes sudden cravings and you know, almost by instinct, exactly how it’s supposed to taste.

Ginataang monggo is one such recipe for me. Enriched with coconut milk, an ingredient used in many Filipino desserts, its distinctive flavor comes from toasted mung beans. It’s a sweet rice-based porridge usually enjoyed around late afternoon to tide you over as dinner is prepared.

This dish reminds me of a Filipino phrase, “nalipasan ng gutom,” meaning, “the hunger has passed.” It describes someone who has gotten used to the pangs of hunger because of going without food for so long, much like getting accustomed to the body odor of an airplane seatmate with questionable hygiene.

Any Filipino mom will tell you that having hunger pass you by is an undesirable state to be in. It leads to crankiness and irrational behavior. Ginataang monggo is one of many treats that keep you sane during that long wait between lunch and dinner.

recipe adapted from Gerry G. Gelle’s Filipino Cuisine: Recipes from the Islands
Monthly Mingle: Ravishing Rice Recipes hosted by Nags

Ginataang Monggo
Toasted Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk

makes about 4 servings

Mung beans, (not yet) sticky rice, and coconut milk.

1/4 cup mung beans (monggo)
one 14 oz can of coconut milk (gata), about 1 3/4 cups
1 cup water
1/2 cup sticky rice (malagkit na kanin), thoroughly washed and drained
1/3 cup granulated sugar, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Notes:

• Sticky rice is also sold as glutinous or sweet rice at your local Asian grocer.

Untoasted and toasted mung beans.

Directions:

1. In a dry skillet over high heat, toast the mung beans until dark brown. Stir or toss continuously to evenly brown the beans.
2. Using a mortar and pestle or rolling pin, gently crush the mung beans with just enough pressure to split in half and dehull. Separate and discard the hulls if desired (I prefer to keep the hulls intact for added texture and nutritional value).
3. Reserve and refrigerate about 1/4 cup of the coconut milk.
4. Pour the remaining coconut milk (about 1 1/2 cups) and 1 cup of water in a saucepan. Add the toasted mung beans and washed rice and bring to a boil. Simmer while uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, just until the rice and beans are thoroughly cooked but still firm. The porridge should have the consistency of loose risotto.
5. Stir in the sugar and salt to incorporation.
6. Serve ginataang monggo hot or cold and top with the reserved coconut milk.

Ginataang monggo – just like how mom used to make.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk

Similar Posts:

1. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
2. Ginataang Kalabasa – Kabocha Squash in Coconut Milk
3. Nasi Uduk – Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice
4. Chicken Adobo in Coconut Milk
5. Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls
6. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans

This ancient Berber dish is prepared around March or April in Morocco, when both green almonds and fava beans are seasonally available. The lamb is slow-cooked with ground mace and finished with the almonds, the beans, and a generous helping of sauteed onions.

I know next to nothing about traditional Moroccan cuisine and the recipe looked simple enough, so why not? I was more interested in cooking with green almonds, though, because I have only tasted it raw.

After a brief simmer, the almonds reminded me of crunchy green beans, which went rather nicely with the creamy favas and fork-tender lamb. The broth, with nothing but mace and onions, had a surprisingly deep flavor, but not so strong that it overpowers the almonds and favas.

recipe adapted from Claudia Roden’s The Book of Jewish Food
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Maninas

Agneau aux Fèves Vertes et aux Amandes
Lamb with Fava Beans and Green Almonds

makes about 6 servings

Mace (from The Spice House) and Fresh Fava Beans.

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 pounds lamb leg or shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 cups water
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground mace

2 onions, chopped
1 cup green almonds
3 cups shelled fava beans, about 1 pound
1 tablespoon honey

Notes:

• I honestly can’t tell the difference between mace and nutmeg. Feel free to use one in place of the other if you agree. Mace is supposedly milder.
• The original recipe suggests using blanched almonds instead of the green almonds.

Green almonds.

Directions:

1. In a large heavy pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. Add the pieces of lamb and brown until evenly colored on all sides.
2. Add the water, salt, pepper, and mace. Bring to a boil and immediately lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover and braise for about 2 hours, adding more water if necessary.
3. Start sauteeing the onions towards the end of braising. In a separate pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and saute the onions, just until golden. Stir in the green almonds.
4. Add the onions and green almonds, along with the fava beans, to the lamb. Stir in the honey and continue cooking over low heat for about 15 minutes, just until the favas are soft and cooked through. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Trying a completely random recipe pays off sometimes.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Lamb with Fava Beans and Green Almonds

Similar Posts:

1. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
2. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans
3. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk
4. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
5. Sandwich Merguez Au Harissa
6. Hobakjuk – Korean Pumpkin Porridge

Buttery fava beans still in its pale green skin are added to sauteed morel mushrooms in this recipe. Crème fraîche, a cultured cream, gives the dish a rich tang. It’s a simple way of enjoying what is arguably the most coveted of spring produce.

When it comes to fresh ingredients, sometimes the simplest recipes are best. That’s what I want to say, but to be honest, I just didn’t want to screw up the morels. It’s one ingredient that makes me nervous in the kitchen and you can bet I went all eagle-eye on the morels as it cooked.

The fragrance released by the sauteed morels, obviously that of a mushroom but much deeper than any others, is nothing short of addictive. It makes you want to risk facial oil burns as you bend over the hot skillet and catch a whiff.

recipe adapted from Saveur
My Legume Love Affair hosted by Coco Cooks
Click: Spring 2009 hosted by Jugalbandi

Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
with Crème Fraîche

makes about 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients:

3 pounds fresh fava / broad beans in the pod
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
12 to 15 fresh morels (about 4 ounces), cleaned and halved or quartered lengthwise
1 tablespoon crème fraîche
salt, to taste

Directions:

1. Remove the fava beans from pods and rinse under cold running water. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
2. Add the fava beans to the boiling water and simmer just until soft, about 5 to 8 minutes. Drain and reserve.
3. Heat the olive oil in a cast-iron or heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the morel mushrooms and gently cook until soft, stirring occasionally, about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche, then the favas, and cook just until the favas are heated through, about 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

Something smells good.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans

Similar Posts:

1. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Morel Mushrooms
2. Lamb with Fava Beans and Green Almonds
3. Morel Mushroom Pilaf
4. Sautéed Ramps in Guanciale
5. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans
6. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk

Poke around my burgeoning list of recipes and you may notice that outright lack of knowledge and unpronounceableness haven’t deterred me in the least from trying out new foods. In keeping with the spirit of blissful ignorance, here are a handful of things I know about dal makhani, a slow-cooked lentil stew with black gram and red kidney beans.

• Julie Sahni calls it “The most exquisite of dal preparations.”
• A triple batch fits perfectly in a 7-quart dutch oven. It’s that good.
• Dal makhani is easy to prepare but takes about 8 hours to cook, much like simmering stock, which is another good reason to make a triple batch. It will be worth it.
• It has a consistency similar to chili. Even if I’m not vegetarian, I’d choose a bowl of dal makhani over chili any day.
• Calling dal makhani “buttered” is a mild understatement. See recipe below.

recipe adapted from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking
My Legume Love Affair hosted by Sra of When My Soup Came Alive

Dal Makhani (Kali Dal)
Buttered Black Gram and Red Kidney Beans

makes 8 servings

Dal makhani ingredients: coriander seeds, sabut urad dal, and cardamom pods

For Soaking the Beans:

1 cup dried whole black gram beans (sabut urad dal or kali dal), about 1/2 pound
2 tablespoons dried red kidney beans
4 cups of water

For Cooking the Beans

1 cup onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons ginger root, finely chopped
3/4 cup fresh tomatoes or 1/2 cup canned drained tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 cup plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper
2 teaspoons kosher salt
6 tablespoons ghee or 8 tablespoons butter (1 stick)

For the Tarka (Perfumed Butter):

4 tablespoons ghee or light vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1 cup onions, finely chopped

For Finishing:

1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup fresh cilantro / coriander leaves, coarsely chopped

To Clean and Soak the Beans:

On a half-sheet pan or large serving platter, spread out the black gram beans and kidney beans. Pick out foreign objects such as small pebbles and sticks. In a strainer, wash under cold running water for a few minutes or until the water runs clear.

Place the black gram beans and red kidney beans in a heavy pan, preferably an enameled cast iron dutch oven. Add 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let the beans soak while covered for about 2 hours.

The soaking liquid will be used to cook the beans so do not drain and discard it.

To Cook the Beans:

Add all of the ingredients for cooking the beans to the pot containing the soaking liquid and beans. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Simmer with the lid slightly ajar for about 5 hours. If feasible, stir the beans gently every half hour.

Take about 2 to 3 cups of the cooked beans from the pan and puree in a blender or food processor. Return the pureed beans to the pot. This gives dal makhani a smoother and creamier consistency.

Keep the dal makhani simmering over low heat while you prepare the tarka (perfumed butter).

Dal makhani after slow-cooking for 5 hours.

To Prepare the Tarka (Perfumed Butter):

Heat the ghee or oil over medium-high heat in a small skillet. When it is very hot, add the cumin seeds and cook until it turns dark brown, about 10 seconds. Add the onions and cook while stirring continuously until light brown, about 10 minutes. Pour the tarka over the warm cooked beans.

Dal makhani with onion and cumin seed tarka.

To Serve:

Top with the heavy cream and cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve warm with rice or bread.

Storage and Reheating:

Dal makhani keeps in the refrigerator for up to 4 days and also freezes well. Defrost thoroughly before reheating over low heat.

Links Related to Dal Makhani / Kali Dal:

• Maa di Dal from Jai and Bee of Jugalbandi
• Dal Makhani, Oberoi Style from Aum of A Life (Time) of Cooking
• Tried and tasted Dal Makhani from Yasmeen of Health Nut
• Another recipe variation from Aayi’s Recipes
• A cooking video from Manjula’s Kitchen

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans

Similar Posts:

1. Lamb with Fava Beans and Green Almonds
2. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
3. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk
4. Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage
5. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
6. Suji Halwa – Indian Semolina and Raisin Pudding

This version of hobakjuk, a Korean porridge made with pumpkins or squashes, is all about texture. Velvety pumpkin puree is mixed with tender azuki beans, chewy sweet rice balls, and crunchy pine nuts. And because everyone knows that pumpkins and spices go hand-in-hand, a light dusting of ground cinnamon ties everything together.

I’m just a bit confused whether hobakjuk should be served as a dessert or as a savory soup. At first glance, it seems like a dessert because it is lightly sweetened. The author then suggests serving the porridge with canisters of salt and pepper, tilting the porridge back to the middle of the sweet-savory scale.

In any case, you don’t have to be Korean to like hobakjuk. Unlike kimchi, this pumpkin porridge will seem instantly familiar even to the most unadventurous of palates. It may necessitate a visit to an Asian grocery store, risking life and limb because the possibility of slipping on errant grains of rice on aisle 7 exists, but try this recipe while pumpkins are in season and you’ll end up saving the pie for later. Much later.

recipe adapted from Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall’s Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen
A Worldly Epicurean’s Delight: Korean hosted by PJ

호박죽 (Hobakjuk)
Korean Pumpkin / Winter Squash Porridge

makes 4 to 5 servings

Roasted pumpkin halves.

1/2 cup dried azuki / red beans
1 pumpkin, about 2 to 3 pounds, about the size of a cantaloupe
3/4 cups granulated sugar or honey
2 tablespoons sweet rice flour
16 sweet rice balls
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon pine nuts
salt and pepper, to taste (optional)

Notes:

• Use any winter squash varietal in place of the pumpkin. You can’t go wrong with butternut squash, so watch Maangchi make it with a pink wig.
• The original recipe calls for boiling the pumpkin but I prefer oven-roasting — the dry heat will give the pumpkin a much deeper flavor.
• Sweet rice flour is also known as glutinous rice flour or mochiko.
• Not recommended, but substitute 2 to 3 cups of canned pumpkin puree if you’re feeling lazy.

To Cook the Azuki / Red Beans:

Add the azuki beans to a pot filled with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Strain the beans and discard the boiling liquid. Return the beans to the pot and add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.

Cook the azuki beans for about 45 minutes, or until tender. The beans should still be firm but thoroughly cooked.

To Roast the Pumpkin:

Preheat the oven to 350ºF/180ºC. Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop out the pulp and seeds. Roast the pumpkin halves for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until tender.

To Cook the Pumpkin Porridge:

Scoop out the roasted pumpkin and mash with a fork. Dissolve the sweet rice flour in about 1/2 cup of water. In a medium saucepan, mix together the roasted pumpkin flesh and sweet rice flour mixture. Stir frequently over low heat for about 15 minutes, until slightly thickened.

Adjust the pumpkin porridge to the desired consistency by adding water or reducing over low heat.

Too thick? Too thin? Just right?

To Serve:

Serve warm in shallow bowls. Top with sweet rice balls, cooked azuki beans, pine nuts, and ground cinnamon. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground pepper if desired.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Hobakjuk – Korean Pumpkin Porridge

Similar Posts:

1. Gyung Dan – Korean Sweet Rice Balls
2. Pickled Ramps, Japanese and Korean Flavors
3. Gamja Jeon – Korean Potato Pancakes
4. Pumpkin Seed Dip of the Mayans – Ha Sikil Pak
5. Pumpkin Pavé – Spiced Pumpkin Filling on Streusel
6. Pumpkin Spice Brioche