I was reluctant to try this recipe because morel mushrooms aren’t exactly a dime a dozen. Foraging is not an option because I don’t know any mycologists and there’s always that tiny chance of Death by Shotgun if I unknowingly wander into an ex-convict’s backyard.

A Julie Sahni recipe has never steered me wrong, though, so why not?

All of the spices (cumin, cardamom, cloves, and a cinnamon stick) are left whole so the morels don’t get overwhelmed. The pilaf was very fragrant but more delicate than I expected. The first thing you taste is the morels (thank goodness) along with the natural sweetness of the onions.

recipe adapted from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Cinzia

Badshahi Pulao / Gochian Pulao
The Emperor’s Pilaf / Morel Mushroom Pilaf

makes about 6 to 8 servings

Morel Mushrooms.

Ingredients:

2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained
4 medium onions
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1/2 pound fresh morel mushrooms, halved and cleaned
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
6 whole cardamom pods
6 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick, about 3 inches long
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt

Directions:

1. Place the basmati rice in a bowl. Add 4 cups of cold water and soak for about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the water used for soaking.
2. Slice 2 of the onions into paper-thin slices (this will be used in the next step). Finely chop the remaining 2 onions.
3. Make the Crispy Fried Onions. In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Fry the paper-thin onions until dark brown, about 20 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent the onions from burning. Remove the onions using a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. The onions will crisp as they cool.
4. In the same pan and oil used to fry the onions, add the cumin seeds and cook for a few seconds over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onions and cook until light brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent the onions from burning.
5. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the morel mushrooms and saute for about 3 minutes, until the morels are fragrant. Add the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and bay leaf and continue cooking until the spices are slightly puffed.
6. Stir in the drained basmati rice and cook until the rice is thoroughly coated in oil and lightly browned. Add the reserved soaking water and salt. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.
7. Cover and simmer for about 10 to 15 minutes, until most of the water is absorbed.
8. Reduce the heat to low and let the rice steam for another 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and rest for at least 5 minutes.
9. Sprinkle the crispy fried onions on top as a garnish and serve with grilled or stewed meats or seafood.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Morel Mushroom Pilaf

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1. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
2. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Morel Mushrooms
3. Thai Wild Mushroom Salad
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5. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans
6. Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage

Poke around my burgeoning list of recipes and you may notice that outright lack of knowledge and unpronounceableness haven’t deterred me in the least from trying out new foods. In keeping with the spirit of blissful ignorance, here are a handful of things I know about dal makhani, a slow-cooked lentil stew with black gram and red kidney beans.

• Julie Sahni calls it “The most exquisite of dal preparations.”
• A triple batch fits perfectly in a 7-quart dutch oven. It’s that good.
• Dal makhani is easy to prepare but takes about 8 hours to cook, much like simmering stock, which is another good reason to make a triple batch. It will be worth it.
• It has a consistency similar to chili. Even if I’m not vegetarian, I’d choose a bowl of dal makhani over chili any day.
• Calling dal makhani “buttered” is a mild understatement. See recipe below.

recipe adapted from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking
My Legume Love Affair hosted by Sra of When My Soup Came Alive

Dal Makhani (Kali Dal)
Buttered Black Gram and Red Kidney Beans

makes 8 servings

Dal makhani ingredients: coriander seeds, sabut urad dal, and cardamom pods

For Soaking the Beans:

1 cup dried whole black gram beans (sabut urad dal or kali dal), about 1/2 pound
2 tablespoons dried red kidney beans
4 cups of water

For Cooking the Beans

1 cup onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons ginger root, finely chopped
3/4 cup fresh tomatoes or 1/2 cup canned drained tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 cup plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper
2 teaspoons kosher salt
6 tablespoons ghee or 8 tablespoons butter (1 stick)

For the Tarka (Perfumed Butter):

4 tablespoons ghee or light vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1 cup onions, finely chopped

For Finishing:

1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup fresh cilantro / coriander leaves, coarsely chopped

To Clean and Soak the Beans:

On a half-sheet pan or large serving platter, spread out the black gram beans and kidney beans. Pick out foreign objects such as small pebbles and sticks. In a strainer, wash under cold running water for a few minutes or until the water runs clear.

Place the black gram beans and red kidney beans in a heavy pan, preferably an enameled cast iron dutch oven. Add 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let the beans soak while covered for about 2 hours.

The soaking liquid will be used to cook the beans so do not drain and discard it.

To Cook the Beans:

Add all of the ingredients for cooking the beans to the pot containing the soaking liquid and beans. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Simmer with the lid slightly ajar for about 5 hours. If feasible, stir the beans gently every half hour.

Take about 2 to 3 cups of the cooked beans from the pan and puree in a blender or food processor. Return the pureed beans to the pot. This gives dal makhani a smoother and creamier consistency.

Keep the dal makhani simmering over low heat while you prepare the tarka (perfumed butter).

Dal makhani after slow-cooking for 5 hours.

To Prepare the Tarka (Perfumed Butter):

Heat the ghee or oil over medium-high heat in a small skillet. When it is very hot, add the cumin seeds and cook until it turns dark brown, about 10 seconds. Add the onions and cook while stirring continuously until light brown, about 10 minutes. Pour the tarka over the warm cooked beans.

Dal makhani with onion and cumin seed tarka.

To Serve:

Top with the heavy cream and cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve warm with rice or bread.

Storage and Reheating:

Dal makhani keeps in the refrigerator for up to 4 days and also freezes well. Defrost thoroughly before reheating over low heat.

Links Related to Dal Makhani / Kali Dal:

• Maa di Dal from Jai and Bee of Jugalbandi
• Dal Makhani, Oberoi Style from Aum of A Life (Time) of Cooking
• Tried and tasted Dal Makhani from Yasmeen of Health Nut
• Another recipe variation from Aayi’s Recipes
• A cooking video from Manjula’s Kitchen

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans

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1. Lamb with Fava Beans and Green Almonds
2. Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
3. Mung Beans and Sticky Rice in Coconut Milk
4. Butternut Squash Risotto with Crispy Sage
5. Ginataang Gulay – Vegetables Simmered in Coconut Milk
6. Suji Halwa – Indian Semolina and Raisin Pudding

Cooking suji halwa is a lot like preparing risotto, but with a lot less stirring. Coarse-ground semolina is first toasted and rendered aromatic in ghee, the Indian version of clarified butter. Raisins and a simple syrup are then poured over the semolina and stirred over low heat until the sweet liquid is fully absorbed.

Since the semolina is first coated in ghee, the semolina puffs up as it absorbs some of the syrup but remain separate, resembling tiny grains barely clinging to each other. I’ve been avoiding this word because one of the most important figures in my life have full dentures, but it really is appropriate in this case — suji halwa has a pleasing toothsome texture. Other people avoid the word for different reasons.

Finished off simply with ground cardamom, a spice I’ve developed an intense liking to through Indian sweets, this warm dessert pudding is always a good option as the mercury dips.

recipe adapted from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking

Suji Halwa
Semolina and Raisin Pudding

makes 6 to 8 servings

Green cardamom pods on semolina

10 tablespoons sugar
2 1/2 cups water
4 tablespoons seedless raisins

3/4 cup ghee or clarified butter
3/4 semolina, also known as rava, farina, or Cream of Wheat
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

heavy cream (optional)
chopped nuts such as almonds or pistachios (optional)

Notes:

• The semolina used in this recipe has a coarse and sandy texture similar to cornmeal.

Raisin Syrup Instructions:

Place the sugar and water in a saucepan and stir continuously over low heat. Once the sugar is completely dissolved, stir in the raisins and remove from the heat.

Semolina Pudding Instructions:

Heat the ghee over medium heat in a wide skillet, preferably non-stick. Once the ghee is very hot, add the semolina. It will sizzle slightly.

While stirring constantly, toast the semolina over medium heat for about 10 minutes, or until lightly golden brown.

Pour the cardamom and raisin syrup over the semolina while mixing vigorously. Bring the pudding to a boil and set the heat to low. While stirring continuously, cook the pudding over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the syrup is fully absorbed.

Sprinkle with ground cardamom and remove from the heat.

To Serve:

Serve hot or at room temperature. Top with heavy cream and chopped nuts if desired.

Storage:

Suji halwa keeps well in the refrigerator for several weeks and can also be frozen.

Links Related to Suji Halwa:

• Cooking video at Manjula’s Kitchen
• Recipe variation at Aayi’s Recipes
• Homemade ghee at A Smart Mouth

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Suji Halwa – Indian Semolina and Raisin Pudding

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2. Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread – 100% Whole Wheat
3. Mangoes and Cream – 7 Ways to Indulge
4. Dal Makhani (Kali Dal) – Buttered Black Gram Beans
5. Poached Pears with Dulce de Leche Sauce
6. Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream

Mangoes and cream sounds as classic a food pairing as peas and carrots, peanut butter and jelly, or spaghetti and meatballs to my ears. This combination lends itself to so many variations, each with its own distinctive character.

The recipe and variations that follow are based on malai aam, a classic Indian dessert of mangoes and cream topped with nuts. It traditionally uses rabadi – milk slowly simmered until reduced to one-fourth its original volume. Sweetened and served as a creamy sauce, rabadi is essential in Indian desserts such as the labor-intensive ras malai, cheese dumplings served with a pistachio cream sauce.

Reading about ras malai in Julie Sahni’s excellent cookbook Classic Indian Cooking, I immediately had a strong urge to try it. Making it myself was not an option because it doesn’t make sense to cook something I’ve never had before. There’s also that little problem with the recipe spanning six pages long, making even the most complex sauces and gravies in the book seem like child’s play.

I consider myself lucky that I live in a city with a thriving Indian community and have access to sweets as boldly flavored as their savory counterparts in curries and dals. A walk down Devon Avenue to hunt for unfamiliar sweets never fails to disappoint — I just point at random things not caring what it is knowing full well that I’ll be surprised and pleased at the same time.

Monthly Mingle 23: Mango Mania hosted by What’s for Lunch Honey?

recipe adapted from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking

Mangoes and Cream
Malai Aam

makes 8 servings

1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons sugar
2 large ripe mangoes
3 tablespoons nuts such as pistachios, almonds, or walnuts, coarsely chopped

Notes:

• In this base recipe, I suggest using scalded cream instead of rabadi mainly for accessibility. Using cream also opens the recipe up for a number of interesting twists that stays true to the core combination of mangoes, dairy, and nuts.

Scald the heavy cream. Bring the cream to a simmer over low heat and immediately remove from the heat. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Chill in the refrigerator.

Peel and slice the mangoes and put in a shallow bowl. Sprinkle with the chopped nuts and chill.

Serve the mangoes with the cream sauce on the side.

Mangoes and Cream Variations:

1. Take time to make the rabadi.
   To make 1 cup of rabadi, bring 4 cups of milk to a boil in a wide pan, preferably non-stick. Stir continuously for about 15 minutes using a spatula or wooden spoon. Lower the heat and simmer gently for about 45 minutes, or until the milk is reduced to 1 cup.
2. Make Crème Chantilly.
   Replace the sugar with 3 tablespoons powdered sugar. Whip the cream and sugar until the desired level texture and airiness is reached. Add a few drops of vanilla extract towards the end of whipping if desired.
3. Add a pinch of ground cardamom to the cream while scalding.
4. Serve on top of flaky puff pastry.
5. Got some gelatin? Make Mango Panna Cotta.
6. Douse the mangoes with dark rum and caramelize under a hot broiler.
7. Use it as an ice cream base. After scalding the cream, put the cream, sugar, and mangoes in a blender and puree. Let the mixture mature in the refrigerator overnight. The fats from the cream and sugar from the ripe mangoes will give you a fine texture. Add the nuts towards the end of churning.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Mangoes and Cream – 7 Ways to Indulge

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As much as I don’t mind making breads that take at least two days to complete, sometimes a freshly baked batch of yeasty goodness just has to come out of the oven right quick. Using pre-ferments and soakers are just two of many techniques for making bread with fully-developed flavor but, uh, they had to be made yesterday.

Planning ahead is necessary because any type of yeast bread can benefit greatly from a longer and slower fermentation. This mantra holds especially true for lean breads where flavor development depends heavily on small amounts of yeast and lots of patience.

If the main flavoring came from other sources, say spices, a bit of garlic, and maybe a sprinkling of chickpea flour, then a larger amount of yeast can be used to make the dough rise quickly. In this case, the yeast primarily acts as a leavener instead of flavor enhancer.

This seems to be the thinking behind the curry roll formula from Austrian baker Gerhard Ströck. These pungent garlic-laced buns are finished in about two hours if you skip the much-maligned “cool on a wire rack” step. Dinner rolls are much better fresh from the oven anyway.

recipe adapted from ichkoche.at (found via Ye Olde Bread Blogge)
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Gerhard Ströck’s Curry Rolls
Curryweckerl á la Ströck

makes 12 dinner rolls (approximately 2 3/4 to 3 ounces each)

Final Dough Formula:

Ingredients               Volume          Ounces          Grams
instant yeast                  4.5 tsp          .5           15
cold water                     1.5 cups
all-purpose flour              3.5 cups       15.5          440
white whole wheat flour        1.75 cups       7.75         220
chickpea flour                                 1.4           40
vegetable oil                  2 tbsp
yogurt                                         1             30
salt                                            .4           12
barley malt syrup                               .4           12
garlic, finely chopped                          .4           12
curry powder                                    .4           12

Notes:

• Google Translate can be very useful for recipes written in a foreign language but some things tend to get lost in translation. This interpretation of the formula worked quite nicely for me but I would definitely appreciate any corrections and suggestions.
• I replaced the 80 grams of cooked chickpeas in the original recipe with 40 grams of water and 40 grams of chickpea flour.
• Chickpea or garbanzo flour is also known as besan, chana, or gram flour in Indian groceries.
• I used garam masala as the curry powder. There are many different versions of this Indian spice blend. Mine is a mixture of finely ground cardamom seeds, cinnamon, cloves, black peppercorns, and nutmeg.

Final Dough Instructions:

Mix                   Dissolve the instant yeast in the water.
                      Add the rest of the ingredients and mix until
                      a rough ball is formed.

Knead                 8 to 10 minutes

kneaded curry roll dough

Rest                  20 minutes in a loosely covered container

Divide                12 pieces (approximately 90 to 95 grams each)

Shaping               Shape into rolls

shaped curry rolls

Final Proof           50 to 60 minutes

Preheat Oven          475ºF

Steam                 1 cup of boiling water poured in a heavy steam
                      pan (preferably cast iron)

Bake                  Immediately lower the temperature to 425ºF.
                      Bake for 20 minutes, rotating the rolls at the
                      halfway mark if necessary

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Gerhard Ströck’s Curry Rolls

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