The name pompe à l’huile is an indication of how this Provençal specialty is made: dough pumped full of oil. Might as well be proactive and drown the bread in extra-virgin olive oil ahead of time if you’re going to do it anyway.

Saveur describes it as a cross between a focaccia, because it is shaped into a round flatbread, and a brioche. I can’t see how pompe à l’huile is similar to a brioche, though. Sure, it has high fat content, but there are no milk, eggs, or butter in it.

All overthinking pedantic musings aside, what we have here is a flaky flatbread in a class all its own. I tweaked the original recipe by giving the poolish a 16-hour headstart, instead of 30 minutes, for that extra hint of complexity that can only come from slow fermentation. It’s how bread geeks do.

recipe adapted from Saveur
Bread Baking Day #22: Sweet Breads hosted by Hefe und Mehr
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Pompe à l’Huile
Provençal Sweet Olive Oil Bread

makes one 12-inch flatbread

Notes:

• You’ll need exactly one 1/4 ounce / 7 gram sachet of instant yeast. Take a small pinch out for the poolish and reserve the rest for the final dough.
• Other recipes for pompe à l’huile call for some combination of anise seeds, orange flower water, and orange zest. These additional ingredients are also common in Gibassier, a close sugar-topped relative.

For the Poolish:

Poolish Directions:

1. Pour the water over the yeast and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix until thoroughly hydrated.
2. Cover and and let stand at room temperature for 14 to 16 hours.

For the Final Dough:

Final Dough Directions:

Mix. In a large bowl, mix together the poolish, flour, sugar and yeast, just until the flour is thoroughly hydrated and a shaggy ball of dough is formed.

Gradually add the olive oil a few tablespoons at a time, mixing to incorporation with each addition.

Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic. It will be very slippery because of the olive oil.

Bulk Ferment. 2 1/2 to 3 hours at room temperature. Begin preheating your oven to 400ºF / 205ºC towards the end of bulk fermentation.

Prepare a half-sheet pan lined with parchment paper.

Shape Roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle. Using a knife, cut 5 slits in the center of the flattened dough to resemble a sand dollar (or make up your own pattern). Stretch out the holes using your fingertips to keep them from closing.

Bake for 15 minutes at 400ºF / 205ºC, until well-browned around the edges.

Cool. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool completely at room temperature.

Sweet, tender, and flaky, kind of like a brioche. Now I get it.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pompe à l’Huile – Sweet Olive Oil Bread

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1. Pan de Leche – Filipino Sweet Bread Rolls
2. Pane Francese – Northern Italian French Bread
3. Rosemary Potato Bread
4. Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread – 100% Whole Wheat
5. Blueberry-Cranberry Bread
6. Sourdough Italian-Style French Bread

The classic French preparation involves nothing more than radishes, butter, and salt. Fearful of not quite “getting” it, I tried out this minted radish butter recipe from Green City Market instead.

You don’t need to be French to appreciate these crunchy clusters of red, pink, and green. The radishes, herbs, and spritzes of lemon lightened the fattiness so much that I almost forgot I was eating butter. My preference is serving the butter generously salted and peppered as a spread for bread, crackers, or other raw vegetables.

recipe adapted from Green City Market
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Graziana

Radish Herb Butter Recipe

makes about 6 servings

8 ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature
juice of 1/2 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
5 radishes, about 1 to 1/2 inches in diameter, washed and trimmed

Directions:

1. Slice the radishes into thin rounds, and then into strips to julienne (or use a mandolin). Discard the root ends.
2. In a bowl, beat the butter with a wooden spoon until smooth.
3. Beat in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the chopped herbs just until thoroughly incorporated.
4. Gently fold in the julienned radishes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Radish Herb Butter

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Buttery fava beans still in its pale green skin are added to sauteed morel mushrooms in this recipe. Crème fraîche, a cultured cream, gives the dish a rich tang. It’s a simple way of enjoying what is arguably the most coveted of spring produce.

When it comes to fresh ingredients, sometimes the simplest recipes are best. That’s what I want to say, but to be honest, I just didn’t want to screw up the morels. It’s one ingredient that makes me nervous in the kitchen and you can bet I went all eagle-eye on the morels as it cooked.

The fragrance released by the sauteed morels, obviously that of a mushroom but much deeper than any others, is nothing short of addictive. It makes you want to risk facial oil burns as you bend over the hot skillet and catch a whiff.

recipe adapted from Saveur
My Legume Love Affair hosted by Coco Cooks
Click: Spring 2009 hosted by Jugalbandi

Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans
with Crème Fraîche

makes about 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients:

3 pounds fresh fava / broad beans in the pod
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
12 to 15 fresh morels (about 4 ounces), cleaned and halved or quartered lengthwise
1 tablespoon crème fraîche
salt, to taste

Directions:

1. Remove the fava beans from pods and rinse under cold running water. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
2. Add the fava beans to the boiling water and simmer just until soft, about 5 to 8 minutes. Drain and reserve.
3. Heat the olive oil in a cast-iron or heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the morel mushrooms and gently cook until soft, stirring occasionally, about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche, then the favas, and cook just until the favas are heated through, about 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

Something smells good.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Sautéed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans

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You’ll likely spend more effort looking for the key ingredient than preparing this simple grilled chicken (see below for a substitution suggestion). The original recipe mentions Fox & Obel, a Chicago grocer that makes Whole Foods seem like Cheap Eats Galore by comparison, as the only source for Espelette peppers around here ($17.99 for 45 grams).

Fox & Obel is a last resort for me because I can drive myself into serious debt just by getting a few ounces of this and that. Groceries aren’t supposed to be a threat to my measly credit limit, but good judgment flies out the window after a few minutes of walking around that tasty-sexy food haven. I wonder what the employee discount is like.

Espelette peppers are coarsely ground dried chiles with a brick red hue. It has AOC status, so the peppers are exclusively sourced from specific French communes and follow strict production methods. It is an essential ingredient in classic Basque dishes such as Pipérade and Poulet Basquaise.

A suitable substitute is paprika with a pinch of cayenne, as suggested in Anne Willan’s The Country Cooking of France. This approximates the distinctive mix of sweetness and mild heat in Espelette peppers.

recipe adapted from The Publican via Time Out Chicago
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Prof. Kitty

The Publican’s Grilled Chicken with Espelette Pepper and Oregano

makes about 2 servings

Ingredients:

2 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice, preferably freshly squeezed
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon espelette pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 1/2 tablespoon brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 whole chicken or 2 cornish hens (about 3 lbs), spatchcocked

Notes:

• Never spatchcocked poultry before? Here’s a helpful video of Alton Brown spatchcocking a cornish hen.

Directions:

1. Mix together all of the seasonings in a container big enough to contain the chicken.
2. Add the spatchcocked chicken and toss to coat. Refrigerate to marinade for at least one hour and up to overnight.
3. If using a charcoal or gas grill: Heat charcoals on one side of the grill or light half of a gas grill. Grill the chicken skin-side down over indirect heat while covered.
   If using an oven: Preheat a lightly oiled cast iron skillet in a 350ºF / 175ºC oven. Place the chicken skin-side down in the hot skillet and return to the oven.
4. Grill or roast for about 30 minutes, until the juices run clear when you cut into the chicken. If using a digital thermometer, the temperature in the thickest part of the thighs should reach 170ºF / 77ºC.
5. Remove the chicken from the grill or oven and let rest for about five minutes before carving.
6. Serve with lemon halves. Grill or roast the lemon halves for a few minutes if you feel like it.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Grilled Chicken with Espelette Pepper

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A Croque Madame is a grilled cheese and smoked ham sandwich topped with a sunny side up egg. I used Black Forest ham, Gruyère cheese, and whole wheat sourdough bread because I want to be known as That Guy who makes a mean sandwich.

Within minutes, this mini-sandwich was reduced to traces of errant crumbs and fingertip grease. No egg yolk dribbled and wasted.

Skip on the fried egg you sissy and you end up with a Croque Monsieur. Who knew that eggs can define gender? Oh, nevermind.

The sudden need to make such a sandwich came from an unexpected source. You may have heard that expressing random thoughts in 140 characters or less is what the cool kids are doing right now. You’re not limited to digital words, though. You can also tweet links to photos of all things mundane. Such as dinner.

Which leads to this awe-inspiring photo of Croque Madame served with tempura green beans. Does that look good or what?

Now go make your own or visit the Paramount Room if you’re in the neighborhood.

recipe adapted from Nancy Silverton’s Sandwich Book: The Best Sandwiches Ever
Grilled Cheese Pageant hosted by Kathy

Croque Madame
Grilled Cheese and Ham Sandwich Topped with a Fried Egg

makes 1 sandwich

Ingredients:

2 slices crusty white OR whole wheat bread (preferably sourdough) OR brioche
softened butter
2 ounces Gruyère cheese, thinly sliced
3 to 4 ounces smoked ham, preferably Black Forest, thinly sliced

1 fried egg, sunny side up
kosher salt or coarse sea salt, to taste
freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Brush one side of each slice of bread lightly with softened butter. With the buttered side down, evenly cover one slice of bread with cheese and smoked ham. Place the second slice of bread on top, buttered side up.
2. Place the sandwich in a preheated panini-style grill or between a hot cast iron skillet and press. Grill until the bread is sizzling and lightly browned.
3. Top the grilled sandwich with the fried egg. Season with salt and pepper.

A Croque Monsieur about to be emasculated by… laying an egg on top? Alright, then.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Croque Madame – Grilled Cheese, Ham, and Egg Sandwich

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6. Potato, Cheddar Cheese, and Chive Bread

Do you notice how these pane francese photos seem to be taken at a peculiar angle? How they show most of the loaf surface area but not quite the entire picture? There’s a reason for that. The hidden cropped areas is where the bread exploded like bats out of a cave.

The original recipe specifically advises against steaming and scoring the loaves. Doing either or both would’ve helped the loaves expand in a more controlled manner, but I’m not complaining. It still came out with a fairly open crumb somehow. These slices of toasted crispness and sour chewiness are just begging to be dipped in extra-virgin olive oil.

I went with the lengthier end of the suggested 2 to 3 hours for the final proof. I should’ve let the dough ferment for another hour or so, almost to the point of collapse and overproofing, to prevent said explosions. As with most recipes that rely on the unpredictability of sourdough, your mileage may vary.

By the way, if this post elicits that deja vu feeling (I can only hope that I have readers of the regular persuasion), I previously posted a more slender version of pane francese. I like to call it loaves of ciabatta in baguette form.

recipe adapted from Joe Ortiz’ The Village Baker via King Arthur Flour
Bread Baking Babes: Pane Francese Naturale hosted by Sara
Bake Your Own Bread

Pane Francese Naturale
Sourdough Italian-Style French Bread

makes two loaves

For the First-Stage Lievito Naturale / Sourdough Starter:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
lievito naturale / sourdough    1/4 cup           1.75          50
water, room temp                1/4 cup           2             57
unbleached bread flour          1/2 cup           2.25          64

First-Stage Lievito Naturale / Sourdough Starter Directions:

1. Cut the sourdough starter into small pieces and place in a bowl. Pour the water over the sourdough starter and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix until thoroughly hydrated. Knead for a few minutes until a smooth dough is formed.
2. Place the lievito naturale in a bowl and cover. Let stand at room temperature for about 5 to 6 hours or until doubled in size before using in the second stage.

Second stage sourdough starter cross-section.

For the Second-Stage Lievito Naturale / Sourdough Starter:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all of the first-stage lievito naturale
water, room temp                1/2 cup           4            113
unbleached bread flour        1 1/2 cups          6.75         191

Second-Stage Lievito Naturale / Sourdough Starter Directions:

1. Cut the sourdough starter into small pieces and place in a bowl. Pour the water over the sourdough starter and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix until thoroughly hydrated. Knead for a few minutes until a smooth dough is formed.
2. Place the lievito naturale in a bowl and cover. Let stand at room temperature for about 3 to 5 hours or until doubled in size before using in the final dough. The second-stage sourdough starter will be much stiffer than the first.

For the Final Sourdough:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all of the second-stage lievito naturale, cut into small pieces
water, room temp                3/4 cup           6            170
unbleached bread flour            2 cups          9            255
salt                              2 tsp           0.4           12

Directions:

Mix             In a large bowl, Pour the water over the lievito
                naturale pieces and stir to dissolve. Add the flour
                and salt. Mix until the dough is thoroughly hydrated
                and a shaggy ball is formed.

Rest            Cover the bowl and let stand for about 10 minutes.

Knead           8 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and no
                longer sticky.

Bulk Ferment    8 to 10 hours at room temperature

Divide          2 pieces

Preshape        loose rounds

Rest            20 to 30 minutes

Shape           tight round or oval loaves



Preheat Oven    450ºF / 230ºC

Final Proof     2 to 4 hours at room temperature, or until about
                doubled in size

Bake            Bake for 35 to 40 minutes at 450ºF / 230ºC, rotating
                the loaves halfway through baking if necessary.

Cool            Let the loaves cool completely at room temperature,
                at least 1 hour.

Sourdough Italian-style French bread crust and crumb. Exploded crust cropped just above the top border of the photo.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Sourdough Italian-Style French Bread

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Preparing a Tarte Tatin in this way guarantees a crisp and flaky crust. Unlike traditional Tarte Tatin recipes, the puff pastry crust is baked separately from the caramelized apples. The basket-shaped puff pastry crust is made ahead of time and filled right before serving.

In addition to looking spiffier than the typical brown disk, I think this method is also easier and more foolproof. Unmolding a traditional Tarte Tatin can end in disaster if it decides to remain glued to the skillet. Still delicious, but not pretty.

A vol-au-vent is a hollow puff pastry shell meant to contain a sweet or savory filling. Vol-au-vents tend to be more diminutive in scale than this 8-inch tart and are usually served in appetizer or hors d’oeuvre form. French for “flight of the wind,” the puff pastry crust lives up to its name as a light and airy nest for the golden brown apples and buttery caramel.

recipe adapted from Sherry Yard’s Desserts by the Yard

Tarte Tatin in Vol-au-Vents

makes two 8-inch Tarte Tatins, about 8 servings

Ingredients:

two 8-inch puff pastry squares, preferably all-butter
one lightly beaten egg (for egg wash)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
6 apples, peeled, split in half lengthwise, cored, and quartered
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Notes:

• Until I mess around with homemade puff pastry, I’ll be using Trader Joe’s all-butter puff pastry. Containing two 8-inch squares (with a bit of trimming), additional rolling is unnecessary for this recipe. Less rolling = more puff.
• The original recipe recommends Fuji apples.

Puff Pastry Crust Directions:

Preheat Oven    400ºF / 205ºC with a rack in the middle of the oven

Prepare a half-sheet pan or cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.

Shape the Puff Pastry
                Using a paring knife, cut a 3/4-inch frame around the
                puff pastry, such that 2 opposing corners are still
                attached to the center.

                Lift one unattached corner and fold to the opposing
                corner.

                Repeat with the opposing unattached corner to finish.

Dock            Using a fork, prick or dock the center of the puff
                pastry (Trader Joe's puff pastry comes pre-docked).

Glaze           Glaze the tops of the borders with the lightly beaten
                egg. Keep the egg wash from dripping down the sides to
                allow the pastry crust to fully rise in the oven.

Bake            400ºF / 205ºC for 15 minutes. Lower the heat to
                350ºF / 175ºC, rotate the baking sheet, and bake for
                another 15 to 20 minutes, until the puff pastry crust
                is well-browned.

Cool            Let the puff pastry crust cool completely on a wire
                rack before filling.

Caramelized Apple Filling Directions and Tarte Tatin Assembly:

1. Make the Caramelized Apple Filling. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Continue cooking the butter until lightly browned. Remove from the heat and sprinkle the sugars evenly on the skillet. Arrange the apples in a tight circular pattern on the skillet, cut side down.
2. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and cook for about 12 minutes. Using tongs or a spatula, turn the apples onto the other cut side and cook for another 12 to 15 minutes, until the apples are a deep golden brown.
3. Remove the apples, leaving the caramel in the skillet. Add the heavy cream, if using, and the lemon juice to the caramel. Lower the heat to medium-low and whisk continuously to deglaze. Cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the caramel is thickened and warm.
4. Assemble the Tarte Tatin. Place rows of apples in the puff pastry, about eight to twelve slices for each puff pastry crust.
5. Spoon the caramel over the apples or serve on the side. Slice the Tarte Tatin into serving portions and serve while still warm.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Tarte Tatin in Vol-au-Vents

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The dark blistered crust pockmarked with fissures gives pain à l’ancienne a look some might call rustic, a polite way of describing misshapen food. Crudely shaped through stretching, these baguettes have thicker ends and seem unrefined at first glance.

What pain à l’ancienne lacks in looks, it more than makes up for in taste. If you consider only “lean” doughs, those made with the bare essentials of flour, water, salt and yeast, then this is as good as homemade bread gets.

The dough is developed using a long autolyse (pronounced auto-lees, as in, “You ought to lease an apartment instead because the economy sucks.”). Flour and water are mixed a day in advance without salt and yeast. This technique does a few things to the dough:

• The flour thoroughly absorbs the water, strengthening the gluten and improving gas retention. More water will be added with the salt and yeast on baking day. If all of the water is added at once, the dough will be weaker and more difficult to handle.
• During the long resting time, the water breaks the flour down into simple sugars, giving the bread a sweeter taste. My go-to Neapolitan-style pizza dough recipe uses a very similar method.

The result is a sweet and nutty bread with a deeply caramelized reddish-brown crust courtesy of the natural sugars unlocked from the flour. This recipe makes the most complex-tasting baguettes I’ve ever baked.

recipe adapted from The Fresh Loaf
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Pain à l’ancienne Baguettes

makes four 12- to 16-inch baguettes

Ingredients              Volume          Ounces          Grams
unbleached all-purpose flour  4 cups         17.6          500
water, ice cold       1 cup + 6 tbsp         11.5          325

water                3 tbsp + 1 tsp           1.8           50
salt                      1 1/2 tsp            .3            9
instant yeast             1 1/2 tsp            .2            5

Notes:

• I used King Arthur all-purpose flour.
• Peter Reinhart’s pain à l’ancienne in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice is based on a method very similar to this recipe. In Reinhart’s version, the salt and yeast are added before refrigeration.

Directions:

Mix             Mix together the flour and the ice-cold water until
                a shaggy ball of dough is formed.

Knead           4 to 6 minutes, until the flour is thoroughly hydrated
                and a smooth ball of dough is formed.

Autolyse        Cover with plastic wrap or store in an airtight
                container. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to
                2 days. The bread will be sweeter the longer the dough
                rests.

Knead           Add the additional water, salt, and instant yeast to
                the cold dough. Knead until the water is completely
                absorbed, about 6 to 10 minutes. The dough will be
                very sticky.

                The dough will initially have the consistency of
                chewing gum and will not readily absorb the additional
                water.

Ferment #1      90 minutes at room temperature

Stretch and Fold

Ferment #2      90 minutes at room temperature

Stretch and Fold

Ferment #3      2 to 3 hours at room temperature, or until almost doubled
                in size

Preheat Oven    460ºF / 240ºC

Divide          4 equal pieces using a lightly moistened bench scraper

Preshape        On a lightly floured surface, gently shape each piece
                into loose ovals by tucking the sides underneath the
                pieces of dough. Handle as gently as possible to avoid
                degassing.

Rest            10 minutes

Shape           Stretch gently into strips, about 12 to 16 inches long.

Steam           1 cup of boiling water poured in a heavy steam pan
                (preferably cast iron)

Bake            Bake for 8 to 9 minutes at 460ºF / 240ºC. Rotate the
                loaves and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the
                crust is deeply browned. The thickest part of the
                baguette will register 205ºF / 91ºC when done.

Cool            At least 30 minutes

Pain à l’ancienne baguette crust.

Pain à l’ancienne baguette crumb.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pain à l’ancienne Baguettes

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If you replace molasses with honey and add rye flour to your old-fashioned gingerbread recipe, you’ll end up with a basic pain d’épices, the French take on gingerbread. As its name implies, “bread of spices” is all about the fragrance and warmth of ground aromatics. There are endless spice mix variations and each recipe seems to have its own distinctive blend.

This fruit and spice loaf cake from Pierre Hermé and Dorie Greenspan has the most interesting spice blend of all the pain d’épices recipes I’ve seen. Water is infused with star anise to start off, so immediately we’re given a preview of the arometherapy to come.

Hefty amounts of cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, coriander, cardamom, and nutmeg may seem like overkill, but the combination is surprisingly well-balanced in the suggested amounts. None of the spices stands out too much and as a whole, the effect is quite intoxicating.

The following pain d’epices recipe makes a dense and hearty loaf meant to be sliced very thinly. The bread itself is light on the honey but there is plenty of sweetness from the prunes and apricots. Walnuts and almonds are added for crunch and citrus zest brightens the deep flavors of the spices, rounding out the texture and aroma of the finished loaf.

recipe adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Desserts by Pierre Hermé
A Fruit A Month: Apricot hosted by Siri

Pierre Hermé’s Pain d’épices
Fruit and Spice Loaf Cake

makes one 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch cake

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
water                   3/4 cup + 2 tbsp        7.0            198
star anise                       10        

honey                           1/3 cup         4.0            113
unsalted butter, melted       5 1/2 tbsp        2.8             78

all-purpose flour             2 1/4 cups       10.1            287
rye flour                       1/4 cup         1.1             32
baking powder                 2 1/2 tsp
cinnamon, ground                  1 tbsp
ginger, ground                    1 tsp
black pepper, ground              1 tsp
coriander, ground               1/2 tsp
cardamom, ground                1/2 tsp
nutmeg, ground                  1/2 tsp

walnuts, coarsely chopped       2/3 cup         2.8             80
sliced almonds, toasted         1/3 cup         1.4             40
pitted prunes, 1/4-inch dice     13             5.3            149
dried apricots, 1/4-inch dice    13             4.3            120
lemon zest                     from 1 lemon
orange zest                    from 1 orange

Notes:

• The original recipe suggests using pine honey and Malaysian Sarawak black pepper.

Directions:

Infuse the water with star anise
                Bring the water and star anise to a boil in a small
                saucepan over high heat. Cover and infuse for about
                one hour.



Preheat Oven    300ºF / 150ºC

Prepare an 8 1/2 x 4 1/2-inch loaf pan
                Use nonstick spray or softened butter to grease the
                bottom and sides of the loaf pan. Line with parchment
                paper. Place the loaf pan on two stacked sheet pans
                or an insulated baking sheet.

Mix Dry Ingredients
                Place the flours, baking powder, and ground spices
                in a container with a tight lid. Cover and shake
                until thoroughly mixed.

Mix Wet Ingredients
                In another bowl, stir the honey and melted butter.
                Strain the star anise-infused water into the bowl
                and stir until well-blended.

Mix Fruits, Nuts, and Zests
                In a separate bowl, stir together the walnuts,
                almonds, prunes, apricots, and citrus zests.
                Toss the fruits, nuts, and zests in a tablespoon
                of the mixed dry ingredients.

Mix (Muffin Method)
                Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Add
                the wet ingredients and stir with a rubber
                spatula or wooden spoon and stir briefly.

                Add the fruits, nuts, and zests and continue
                mixing only until the dry ingredients are
                moistened. The batter should be thick and lumpy.

Pan             Deposit the batter into the greased loaf pan.
                Place the loaf pan on two stacked sheet pans or
                on an insulated baking sheet.

Bake            300ºF / 150ºC for 65 to 75 minutes, until a
                wooden skewer inserted in the middle of the
                cake comes out clean.

Cool            Let the cake cool for about 10 minutes before
                removing from the loaf pan. Cool completely at
                room temperature, at least 2 hours.

Pain d’épices Storage:

Once the cake is thoroughly cooled, wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Wrapped airtight in plastic, pain d’épices will keep at room temperature for up to four days or frozen for up to a month.

To Serve Pain d’épices:

Let the loaf “ripen” for at least one day for a deeper flavor. Serve in thin slices with hot tea or cider.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pain d’épices – Fruit and Spice Cake

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3. Pain à l’ancienne Baguettes
4. Apple Hazelnut Chocolate Cake
5. Pumpkin Spice Brioche
6. Sachertorte – Austrian Chocolate Cake

This contemporary version of Bûche de Noël is the perfect opportunity to make something extra festive for Christmas. Instead of a roulade and buttercream icing in the traditional French yule log, this modern take is composed of a silky mousse layered with crème brûlée and crispy chocolate praline.

I decided to set the entire mousse cake on chocolate biscuit, a thin sponge cake layer, because I thought it resembled terra firma. The chocolate mousse is also complemented with minty elements — the crème brûlée insert is infused with mint and the chocolate biscuit is brushed with a simple mint syrup.

The measurements in the recipe that follows are in metric weights. All of it. I thought of converting everything to volume and imperial measures like I usually do but take a peek at the recipe and I’m sure you’ll understand. If you don’t own one already, may I recommend this fine weighing scale?

All of the Bûche de Noël components are scaled for a 13-inch half pipe mold, which is about the same size as a roll of aluminum foil. It’s difficult to work with such small amounts, but at the very least, the waste is minimal (resulting in less mindless snacking).

The Daring Bakers: Bûche de Noël / French Yule Log
hosted by Hilda and Marion

recipes for components adapted from Florilege Gourmand, Wayne Gisslen’s Professional Baking, and Michel Suas’ Advanced Bread and Pastry

Chocolate Mint Mousse Bûche de Noël / French Yule Log

makes one 13-inch cake

Components:

Mint Crème Brûlée Insert
Gavottes / Pailleté Feuilletine
Praliné Feuilleté au Chocolat / Crispy Chocolate Praline Layer
Chocolate Mousse
Mint Syrup
Chocolate Biscuit
Chocolate Ganache
Chocolate Glaçage

Notes:

• Use 64 to 85 percent for bittersweet chocolate.

Special Equipment:

• 13-inch Bûche de Noël mold
• weighing scale
• digital thermometer

For the Mint Crème Brûlée Insert:

Ingredients                     Grams
powdered gelatin                    2
cold water                         10
whole milk                          8
heavy cream                        61
fresh mint leaves, chopped         20
granulated sugar                   22
egg yolks                          16

Mint Crème Brûlée Insert Directions:

1. Line the bottom of the Bûche de Noël mold with parchment.
2. Bloom the powdered gelatin in the cold water.
3. Bring the milk and heavy cream to a boil and remove from the heat, Add the mint, cover, and infuse for 30 minutes.
4. Strain into a bowl set on your weighing scale. Add additional heavy cream to rescale the mixture to its original weight  (69 grams).
5. In a small saucepan, bring the infused cream and half of the sugar to a boil. Remove from the heat.
6. Mix the remaining sugar with the egg yolks.
7. Temper the egg yolks with about one-third of the infused cream.
8. Return the tempered mixture to the saucepan. Heat the liquid to 180ºF / 82ºC.
9. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer or chinois.
10. Add the bloomed gelatin and stir until thoroughly incorporated.
11. Pour into the parchment-lined Bûche de Noël mold and freeze. Remove from the mold and store in the freezer.

For the Gavottes / Pailleté Feuilletine:

Ingredients                     Grams
whole milk                         40
unsalted butter                     4
all-purpose flour                  18
egg, beaten                         8
granulated sugar                    2

Gavottes / Pailleté Feuilletine Directions:

1. Heat the milk and butter together until butter is completely melted. Remove from the heat.
2. Sift flour into milk-butter mixture while beating, add egg and granulated sugar. Make sure there are no lumps.
3. Grease a baking sheet and spread batter thinly over it.
4. Bake at 430°F / 220°C for a few minutes until the crepe is golden and crispy. Let cool.

For the Praliné Feuilleté au Chocolat / Crispy Chocolate Praline Layer:

Ingredients                     Grams
milk chocolate, chopped            35
unsalted butter, room temp          9
praline                            11
gavottes / pailleté feuilletine    21

Praliné Feuilleté au Chocolat / Crispy Chocolate Praline Layer Directions:

1. Melt the milk chocolate and butter in a double boiler.
2. Add the praline and the coarsely crushed gavottes / pailleté feuilletine. Mix quickly to thoroughly coat with the chocolate.
3. Spread a 1.5- by 13-inch layer between two sheets of wax paper. Refrigerate until hard.

For the Chocolate Mousse:

Ingredients                     Grams
powdered gelatin                    3
cold water                         15
granulated sugar                   27
glucose or light corn syrup         7
water                              10
egg yolks                          33
heavy cream #1                     20
bittersweet chocolate             116
heavy cream #2                    212

Chocolate Mousse Directions:

1. Bloom the powdered gelatin in cold water.
2. Make a pâte à bombe.
   Beat the egg yolks until very light in colour (approximately 5 minutes until almost white).
   Cook the sugar, glucose, and water on medium heat for approximately 3 minutes (if you have a candy thermometer, the mixture should reach 244°F / 118°C. If you do not have a candy thermometer, test the sugar temperature by dipping the tip of a knife into the syrup then into a bowl of ice water, if it forms a soft ball in the water then you have reached the correct temperature).
   Add the sugar syrup to the beaten yolks carefully by pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream while continuing to beat the yolks. You can do this by hand but it’s easier to do this with an electric mixer.
   Continue beating until cool (approximately 5 minutes). The batter should become thick and foamy.
3. In a double boiler, heat heavy cream #1 (20 grams). Add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth.
4. Whip heavy cream #2 (212 grams) until stiff.
5. Pour the melted chocolate over the softened gelatin, mixing well. Let the gelatin and chocolate cool slightly and then stir in about one-third of the whipped cream to temper. Add the pâte à bombe.
6. Add in the rest of the whipped cream and mix gently with a spatula.

For the Mint Syrup:

Ingredients                     Grams
granulated sugar                   35
water                              49
fresh mint leaves, chopped          7

Mint Syrup Directions:

1. In a small saucepan, bring the granulated sugar and water to a boil.
2. Add the fresh mint leaves and immediately remove from the heat.
3. Let the mint infuse for at least 15 minutes. Strain and discard the mint leaves.

For the Chocolate Biscuit:

Ingredients                     Grams
pastry flour                       20
cocoa powder                       20

egg yolks                          36
eggs                               82
sugar #1                           65

egg whites                         52
sugar #2                           26

Chocolate Biscuit Directions:

Preheat Oven    400ºF / 205ºC

Prepare a half-sheet pan lined with parchment paper or silicone mat

Mix (Separated Egg Sponge Method)
                Sift together the pastry flour and cocoa powder.

                Whip the egg yolks, whole eggs, and sugar #1 to the
                ribbon stage. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites
                and sugar #2 to soft-medium peaks.

                Add the meringue to the egg yolk foam in 2 to 3
                installments. Fold in the sifted pastry flour and
                cocoa powder only until absorbed.

Pan             Deposit the batter into the lined sheet pan and
                spread evenly. 

Bake            400ºF / 205ºC for about 9 minutes, or until the edges
                are slightly dark brown.

Cool            Immediately transfer to a wire rack and let the
                cake cool completely at room temperature.

Finishing       Brush with mint syrup (preceding recipe).

For the Chocolate Ganache:

Ingredients                     Grams
heavy cream                        50
bittersweet chocolate, chopped     50
unsalted butter, room temp          8

For the Chocolate Glaçage:

Ingredients                     Grams
heavy cream                        50
bittersweet chocolate, chopped     50
unsalted butter, room temp         17

Chocolate Ganache and Chocolate Glaçage Instructions:

1. In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil and immediately remove from the heat.
2. Cool to 190ºF / 88ºC and immediately pour over the chopped chocolate. Let rest for about a minute.
3. Using a rubber spatula, stir gently in a circular motion from the center and work your way outwards as an emulsion is formed.
4. Once the chocolate cools to 95ºF / 35ºC, add the butter and continue stirring gently just until the butter is thoroughly incorporated. The finished emulsion should be shiny and smooth.
5. Use immediately for best results.

Crispy chocolate praline layer and mint crème brûlée insert

Chocolate Mint Bûche de Noël Assembly:

Line the bottom of the Bûche de Noël mold with parchment.

Pipe one third of the mousse component into the mold. Take the mint crème brûlée insert out of the freezer at the last second and set on top of the mousse. Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.

Pipe second third of the mousse component around and on top of the mint crème brûlée insert. Cut the crispy chocolate praline layer to a size slightly smaller than your mold so that it can be surrounded by mousse. Lay it on top of the mousse you just piped into the mold.

Pipe the last third of the mousse component on top of the crispy chocolate praline layer. Level and freeze for a few hours to set.

Lightly dust the chocolate biscuit with confectioner’s sugar. Apply a strip of chocolate ganache to serve as the base for the Bûche de Noël log.

Unmold the frozen bûche de noël and place on a wire rack. Lightly dust with cocoa powder and apply the chocolate glaçage. Set on top of the chocolate ganache and refrigerate until ready to serve.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Chocolate Mint Bûche de Noël

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