Being of Filipino descent, the craving for pork hits hard and often. We take pig seriously, but until someone can tell me how to make lechon in an apartment kitchen, I’ll have to settle for something more manageable.

Whenever squares of pork belly lie in the fridge, my gut instinct tells me to consult the Chinese. Only recently have I realized that our neighbors across the pond revere Wilbur as much as we do. Fergus Henderson’s and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s homages to all animals snouted and hooved are as enjoyable to read as they are to cook from. When they say kill it and use the whole thing, they mean it. Now that’s something I can relate with.

There are no weird or nasty bits here, though. Just the tame stuff that BLTs are made of. The belly is brined with juniper berries, cloves, peppercorns, and bay leaves, presumably to thoroughly season instead of prevent the meat from drying out. Short of dipping the belly in a drum of napalm, you’d be hard-pressed to overcook something that is half lard.

After roasting for two hours, the skin wasn’t as crackly as I wanted it to be. The solution? Grab heatproof gloves and broil inches away from the heating element. Consider wearing protective eyewear as it puffs and sputters.

recipe adapted from Fergus Henderson’s The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating

Crackling Pork Belly Roast

makes 4 to 6 servings

Juniper berries, peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaves for the brine.

Ingredients:

4 to 5 pound piece of skin-on pork belly, preferably including the ribs

For the Brine:

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
10 ounces / 280 grams salt (see notes)
12 juniper berries
12 cloves
12 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
4 quarts of water

For Roasting the Pork Belly:

2 onions, peeled and chopped
a splash of olive oil
a pinch of salt

Notes:

• Don’t turn your pork belly into a salt lick. The original recipe specifies a volume measurement for the salt (2 1/4 cups of coarse sea salt). Depending on the coarseness and brand of salt you use, the actual weight could vary significantly. Consult this helpful guide on brining (PDF file) to determine the amount of salt you’ll need. I used 2 cups of Diamond Crystal kosher salt for the 4 quarts of water needed in this recipe.

I own a box cutter, but it’s not for opening packages from Amazon.

Directions:

1. Brine the pork belly. Place all of the brine ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil over high heat to dissolve the sugar and salt. Pour the brine into a non-reactive container (such as food-grade plastic or stainless steel) and allow to cool completely. Place the pork belly in the brine. If necessary, pin the meat down with a small plate to keep it fully immersed. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 3 days.
2. Preheat the oven to 375ºF / 190ºC with a rack in the upper third of the oven.
3. Drain the pork belly and pat dry with paper towels. Using a very sharp knife or box cutter, score the rind.
4. Rub the rind with the olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Place the chopped onions in the center of a roasting pan or cast iron skillet and set the pork belly on top.
5. Roast the pork belly at 375ºF / 190ºC for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
6. If the rind is not crisped to your liking, broil the pork belly under high heat. Move the belly around as necessary to evenly crisp the skin.
7. Let the pork belly rest for 15 to 30 minutes before slicing.

Fill in the blank: The secret way to a Filipino’s heart is through his / her ___.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Crackling Pork Belly Roast

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5. Feed a Crowd: Red Cooked Pork Shoulder
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Jerusalem artichokes have nothing to do with either the capital of Israel or globe artichokes, so what gives? Extensive research indicates that we can blame the English. Jerusalem artichokes are root tubers from a type of sunflower. The Italian word for sunflower is girasole (“to turn towards the sun”), which eventually morphed into “Jerusalem” after landing on British shores. People who want none of that confusion prefer to call these sunchokes.

The “artichoke” part is easier to explain — fully cooked sunchokes taste similar to globe artichokes. When raw or lightly cooked, it will be juicy and crunchy, almost like jicama or water chestnuts.

This recipe also highlights morel mushrooms, another springtime Ingredient of Desire. The soup is finished with a hefty dose of cream for that velvety texture and topped with fragrant sauteed morels prior to serving.

recipe adapted from Gordon Ramsay
Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Marija

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Morel Mushrooms

makes about 4 servings

Jerusalem artichokes / sunchokes in a cute little box.

Ingredients:

5 ounces fresh morel mushrooms, halved and cleaned
1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed or peeled
juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
1/2 cup white wine
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2/3 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
freshly grated nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Fill a bowl with cold water and stir in the lemon juice. Cut the Jerusalem artichokes into thin slices and immediately drop into the bowl of lemon water to keep them from browning. Let stand for at least 5 minutes and drain.
2. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped shallots and saute for about 5 minutes while stirring frequently (try not to let the shallots brown). Add the sliced Jerusalem artichokes and saute for about 5 minutes more.
3. Add the white wine and cook until the wine is evaporated. Pour in the chicken or vegetable stock, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, just until the Jerusalem artichokes are thoroughly softened.
4. Puree the soup using a food mill, food processor, or blender. Strain using a medium-mesh strainer back into the saucepan and stir in the cream. You can cool the soup and refrigerate at this point to serve later.
5. To serve, heat the Jerusalem artichoke soup over low heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
   In a small skillet, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and butter over medium heat. Saute the morel mushrooms for about 5 minutes and season lightly with salt, pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg. Ladle the Jerusalem artichoke soup into bowls and top with the sauteed morel mushrooms.

Looks can be deceiving.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Morel Mushrooms

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English hot cross buns are scented with allspice and baked with dried currants and candied citrus peel. The buns are traditionally enjoyed for breakfast on Good Friday, but that doesn’t keep me from baking these all year round. It’s ready in about three hours so it’s quick as far as yeast rolls go.

The dough is also an excellent base recipe for pillowy, moist, and lightly sweetened rolls. Even with the cookie-like cross on top, most of the sweetness comes from the additional dried fruits and candied citrus peel. Variations with spicing, fruits, and even nuts makes this recipe an easy way to use up odds and ends from baking other stuff.

The crossing paste is piped right before baking. The cross ends up crisp, much like lemon vanilla cookies, and goes well with the softness of the buns. Most versions I’ve tried are topped with a thick cross of icing after baking and tend to be way too sweet to my liking.

I should mention that the cross adds an agreeable vanilla-citrus crunch and is definitely not just for decoration. I’m thinking of using different extracts and flavorings for the paste, perhaps as an addition to brioche. It’s kind of fun to doodle on dough and bake.

Happy Easter!

recipe adapted from Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog
Bake Your Own Bread

Traditional English Hot Cross Buns

makes 12 buns

Components:

Sponge
Simple Syrup Glaze
Crossing Paste
Hot Cross Bun Dough

Special Equipment:

• A pastry bag
• A #11 or #12 round pastry tip (about 1/4-inch opening)

For the Sponge:

Sponge Directions:

1. Whisk together the warm milk and sugar to dissolve. Add the instant yeast and flour and continue whisking until smooth.
2. Cover and let stand at room temperature for about 30 to 40 minutes, until the sponge is 3 to 4 times its original height. The sponge will be frothy and slightly jiggly.

Mmm yeasty.

For the Simple Syrup Glaze:

Simple Syrup Glaze Directions:

1. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved.
2. The simple syrup can be used as a glaze while still hot or made ahead and refrigerated.

For the Hot Cross Bun Dough:

For the Crossing Paste:

Notes:

• Make the crossing paste just as the shaped rolls are almost done proofing. The paste may stiffen if made too far ahead.

Hot Cross Bun Directions:

Mix. In a large bowl, mix together the flour and softened butter. Add the egg, sugar, salt, and allspice and continue mixing until evenly incorporated. Add the sponge and continue mixing until a shaggy ball of dough is formed.

Knead for 4 to 5 minutes, until the dough is only slightly sticky. Add dried currants or raisins. Fold the dough over itself gently until the dried fruits are evenly distributed in the dough.

Bulk Ferment #1. 30 minutes at room temperature

Lightly knead the dough inside the bowl.

Bulk Ferment #2. 30 minutes at room temperature

Prepare a sheet pan lined with a silicone mat or parchment paper.

Divide. 12 pieces

Shape. tight round rolls

Final Proof. 60 minutes at room temperature, or until about 1 1/2 times its original size

Preheat Oven. 440ºF / 225ºC

Make the Crossing Paste. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the sugar and mix thoroughly (the sugar won’t be completely dissolved at this point).

Remove from the heat. Add the milk, vanilla extract, lemon zest, and egg. Continue whisking until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the sifted flour and mix only until a smooth paste is formed.

Pipe the Crossing Paste. Use a round pastry tip with a 1/4-inch opening. Pipe the paste after the dough is done proofing and right before baking.

Bake for 14 to 16 minutes at 440ºF / 225ºC, until the buns are well browned and the crossing paste is lightly colored.

Glaze. Brush with the simple syrup glaze immediately after removing from the oven.

Serving / Reheating. This just in: hot cross buns are best when fresh and served hot. Reheat day-old buns at 350ºF / 175ºC for about 6 minutes before serving.

This is a first. Half the buns are usually gone in the time it takes to shoot a camera.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Hot Cross Buns Recipe

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One thing that can go wrong with baked whole pumpkins is incinerating it into mush. Filled with cream and Gruyère cheese, you’ll know when the pumpkin is overcooked. It will likely collapse into a deflated mound of white and orange laced with strings of melted Gruyère. The semi-successful dish will still be delicious, as long as the cream spills into a baking dish instead of the oven floor.

That’s my long-winded way of saying that you can’t mess this non-recipe up.

The pumpkin top is sliced off to serve as its own lid and the structural integrity of the baked pumpkin depends on the carving method. Instead of cutting off the tops horizontally in one stroke, use a narrow pointed knife and slice around the stem at a 45 degree angle. Just don’t forget to watch those fingers.

recipe adapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage Cookbook
Monthly Mingle: Sensational Sides hosted by Ruth’s Kitchen Experiments

Whole Pumpkin Baked with Cream and Gruyère Cheese

makes 4 to 6 servings

a pumpkin weighing about 2 pounds
Gruyère cheese or any melting cheese, up to 1 pound
a few cups of cream
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
a knob of butter

Notes:

• A 2-pound pumpkin is about the same size as a cantaloupe.
• Use smaller individual-sized pumpkins and adjust the baking time accordingly.
• Don’t throw away the pumpkin seeds. Rinse off the pulp and spread out the pumpkin seeds on a half sheet pan in a single layer . Bake along with the filled pumpkin for about 30 minutes, or until browned and crispy. Toasted pumpkin seeds can be eaten whole.

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 375ºF/191ºC.

Using a narrow pointed knife, slice around the stem of the pumpkin at a 45-degree angle. Scoop out pulp and seeds. Fill the pumpkin with grated Gruyère cheese until about a third full.

Fill the pumpkin with cream until about two-thirds full. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Throw in a knob of butter, because we all know that pumpkins and butter always pair well.

Replace the pumpkin top. The filled pumpkin is now ready to bake.

Bake at 375ºF/191ºC for about 45 minutes to 1 1/4 hours, until tender and spoonable. Check the pumpkins for doneness by removing the lid and poking it with a knife or skewer.

To Serve:

Scoop out the pumpkin flesh with the cream and cheese into warmed soup bowls. Serve piping hot.

Witch’s brew, now with 400% more calories!

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Whole Pumpkin Baked with Cream and Cheese

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Cream-based scones are as quick and easy as scones can get. This recipe requires nothing more than cream and any combination of dried fruits and nuts of your choice. There is no waiting for butter to soften at room temperature. There are no eggshells to crack and fish out of your pyrex. It takes about 30 minutes from measuring the ingredients to pulling out trays of freshly-baked scones from the oven.

In addition to the short ingredient list, creams scones use the simplest and most well-known method for making quick breads. The muffin method calls for nothing more than adding the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, much like making pancake batter but with less liquid. Other mixing methods for scones are the finicky biscuit method, where cold fat is cut into flour until pea-sized, and the labor-intensive creaming method, where room temperature butter is fluffed with sugar through vigorous, uh, creaming.

There is no “creaming” in a cream scone. Go figure.

The muffin method produces scones with a moist interior and slightly crumbly crust, a welcome contrast to the nutty crunchiness of pumpkin seeds in each bite.

cream scone recipe adapted from Michel Suas’ Advanced Bread and Pastry

Pumpkin Seed Cream Scones

makes 8 scones (cut into triangles from an 8-inch circle)

For the Dry Ingredients:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
bread flour                   2 2/3 cups         12            340
baking powder                     1 tbsp           .5           14
salt                            1/2 tsp
hulled pumpkin seeds, toasted     1 cup           5.25         149

For the Wet Ingredients:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
heavy cream (35% fat)         1 1/2 cups         12.625        359
honey                         1 1/2 tbsp          1.125         35
granulated sugar                1/3 cup           2.375         67

egg wash (1 egg mixed with 1 teaspoon of water)
hulled pumpkins seeds, toasted (optional topping)

Notes:

• Why bread flour? Using stronger bread flour will allow the scones to retain their triangular shape while baking. Feel free to substitute any type of flour, from pastry to all-purpose, regular to whole wheat. The scones may spread out a bit more, though.
• I used a lightly floured 8-inch cake pan to shape the scones into a circle before cutting into 8 wedges. 8 is a lucky number, you know.
• Replace the hulled pumpkin seeds with any combination of dried fruits or nuts. Using frozen fruits such as blueberries? Toss it in flour before mixing to reduce bleeding.

Cream Scone Instructions (The Muffin Method):

Preheat Oven    375°F/190ºC

Mix (Wet)       In a separate container, whisk together the honey,
                and granulated sugar until the sugar is dissolved.

Mix (Dry)       Sift the bread flour, baking powder, and salt into a
                large container. Add the pumpkins seeds and mix briefly.

Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients. Mix just until
incorporated, taking care to prevent over-mixing. The dough will be dry
and lumpy in some spots.

Shape           8-inch circle, using a cake pan, cake ring, or by hand

This cream scone dough could have used a bit more mixing. Better under-mixed and crumbly than over-mixed and brickly.

Divide          8 wedges

Pumpkin seed cream scone dough divided into 8 wedges. Master of the obvious.

Glaze           Brush with the egg wash and top with toasted pumpkin seeds
                (if you are using it)

Bake            Bake at 375°F/190ºC for 15 to 20 minutes until golden brown

Best served immediately.

After cooling thoroughly, refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to a week.

This is a post from Apple Pie, Patis, and Pate
Pumpkin Seed Cream Scones

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