Whole Grain Rosemary Potato Bread

This is the 100% whole grain version of Italian panmarino, or rosemary potato loaf, my favorite bread for dipping in olive oil. Both formulas are adapted from Peter Reinhart, the person responsible for tearing this Asian away from his daily rice-and-noodles-as-staple habit. In my kitchen, one can find flour-crusted bannetons, linen couches, and enough flour varieties to make a European blush but there is no Zojirushi or rice dispenser in sight. I am somewhat ashamed.

I find it hard to explain to relatives why counter surfaces are caked with flour instead of desiccated rice grains. They just don’t get it. Sadly, I get a much stronger reaction when serving them brown rice instead of the customary steamed white, as if insulted by way of moist palm face slap. Well, excuse me for thinking about trivial things such as health and nutrition.

Anyway, we have two bread formulas from Peter Reinhart, one using 100% whole wheat and the other made with regular white flour. Both call for similar ingredients but have a completely different development technique. The most notable difference is the use of a soaker in this whole grain version, consisting of whole wheat flour, water, and salt, which basically helps with both flavor and gluten development.

For those so inclined, these two formulas can serve as a template for converting any bread formula to its 100% whole grain version. Those who don’t mind more strongly flavored and dense loaves can benefit from the extra nutritional value in whole grain breads.

recipe adapted from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Whole Grain Rosemary Potato Bread
Panmarino

makes two 1-pound loaves

Notes:

• Add some coarsely ground black pepper and roasted garlic in the final dough for extra flavor. If using roasted garlic, add it towards the end of kneading the final dough.
• This formula makes a slack dough. Feel free to make adjustments by adding more flour while kneading the final dough.

For the Mashed Potatoes:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
potatoes                                          6            170
water                    at least 2 cups

Slice the potatoes into 1-inch chunks. Boil the potatoes in the water until soft.  Store the potatoes in the refrigerator for the final dough and reserve the potato boiling water for the biga and soaker.

For the Soaker:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
whole wheat flour                 1 3/4 cups      8            227
salt                                1/2 tsp
potato water, room temperature      3/4 cup       6            170

Mix the soaker ingredients until evenly hydrated. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

For the Biga:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
whole wheat flour                 1 3/4 cups      8            227
instant yeast                       1/4 tsp
potato water, room temperature 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp   7            198

Mix the biga ingredients until a shaggy ball of dough is formed. Knead the biga for about 2 minutes or until the ingredients are evenly distributed.

Place the biga in a bowl and cover. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 3 days. Let the biga sit at room temperature for about 2 hours before using in the final dough.

Final Dough Formula:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
all of the potatoes, mashed
all of the soaker, cut into small pieces
all of the biga, cut into small pieces
whole wheat flour                                 2             56
salt                              1 1/8 tsp                      9
instant yeast                     2 1/4 tsp                      7
olive oil                         1 tbsp           .5           14
fresh rosemary                    2 tbsp

Final Dough Instructions:

Mix             Mix all of the ingredients until evenly incorporated

Will it come together? Yes. Yes it will.

Knead           3 to 4 minutes

Rest            5 minutes

Knead           1 minute to further strengthen the gluten

Bulk Ferment    45 to 60 minutes at room temperature in a lightly
                oiled bowl, or until 1 1/2 times its size

Divide          2 pieces

Shape           boule or batard

Final Proof     approximately 45 to 60 minutes at room temperature

proofed rosemary potato boule and batards

Preheat Oven    425ºF/218ºC

Score           (optional)

scored batards

Steam           1 cup of boiling water poured in a heavy steam
                pan (preferably cast iron)

Bake            Lower the temperature immediately to 350ºF/177ºC.
                Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the loaf if necessary
                and bake for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the
                loaf registers 195ºF/91ºC in the center.

Cool            At least 1 hour