Pumpernickel Bagels

Pumpernickel Bagel Crumb - Peter Reinhart

This is pumpernickel in the American tradition where a little help from wheat flour (for structure) and molasses (for color) are added to coarsely ground rye flour. The dark color characteristic of German pumpernickel breads is achieved through the Maillard reaction where loaves are cooked low and slow for 16 to 24 hours. This baking method deeply caramelizes the pumpernickel flour and develops an intense flavor (more on that in a later post). I would call German pumpernickel the barbecue of breads but depending on who’s around, I suppose you could call barbecue the pumpernickel of meats.

A lightly toasted pumpernickel bagel is a fine alternative to my other breakfast bread. Avoiding the vending machine until lunchtime is a cinch with this 100% whole grain bagel and its pronounced flavor really wakes up your taste buds in the morning.

The flavor and texture is completely different depending on how soon the bagels are eaten after baking. Within fifteen minutes the crust is pleasantly crisp but hours later a more bagel-like chewiness comes through.

makes 6 bagels
recipe adapted from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads, winner of the 2008 James Beard Award for Best Baking/Dessert Book. Buying cookbooks as soon as they get released isn’t such a bad idea after all.

Whole Grain Pumpernickel Bagels

For the soaker:

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (4 ounces) whole pumpernickel/coarse rye flour
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (4 ounces) whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) water
3 1/2 teaspoons barley malt syrup
2 1/4 teaspoons molasses

Notes:

  • I don’t recommend it, but you can use honey instead of the barley malt syrup. Bagels just don’t seem right without it.
  • I used blackstrap molasses, which some may find a bit heavy. Lighter types of molasses will do just fine, of course. The alternative to molasses is sorghum syrup, which is something I’ve never used before.

Mix the soaker ingredients until evenly hydrated. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

For the biga:

1 3/4 cups (8 ounces) whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) water, at room temperature

Mix the biga ingredients until a rough ball of dough is formed. Knead the dough for about 2 to 3 minutes to ensure that the dough is evenly hydrated. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours and up to 3 days.

Pumpernickel Bagel Biga and Soaker - Peter Reinhart
which one has molasses in it?

For the final dough:

all of the soaker
all of the biga
2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) water, at room temperature
5/8 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons (2 ounces) whole wheat flour

Notes:

  • I like my bagels, especially pumpernickel, matte and unassuming, so I usually skip the egg wash and toppings. Feel free to use anything from salt to diced onions.

Cut up the soaker and biga into small pieces and combine with all of the final dough ingredients. This is Reinhart’s epoxy method for whole grain dough, also used in the anadama formula.

Knead the dough for 3 to 4 minutes. Dough with rye flour tends to be sticky but this dough should be fairly stiff. Adjust with additional whole wheat flour if necessary. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes then knead again briefly for about 1 minute.

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover. Let rise at room temperature for 45 to 60 minutes or until 1 1/2 times its size.

Divide into 6 equal portions.

Divided Pumpernickel Bagel Dough

Let the pieces of dough rest for 5 minutes before shaping into ropes.

Pumpernickel Bagel Dough ropes

Wrap the ropes around your knuckles such that the ends are overlapping over your palm. Roll the ends on an unfloured counter to seal.

Shaped Pumpernickel Bagels

Preheat the oven to 500°F. The bagels will be ready to boil within 20 to 30 minutes of shaping. You didn’t think we’d skip that step did you?

To boil the bagels:

2/3 cups baking soda
10 cups water

Notes:

  • Reinhart’s boiling water calls for “4 inches of water” and 2 teaspoons of baking soda. This just doesn’t seem like enough alkalinity to replace the much stronger and potentially dangerous lye bath. I went with the stronger alkaline solution in Alton Brown’s pretzel recipe where more precise measurements are also suggested.

Bring the water to a boil in a wide pot. Add the baking soda slowly to keep the foam from overflowing. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Think of it as poaching instead of boiling.

Boil the bagels for a total of 1 minute, turning halfway through.  The bagels should float within 30 seconds.  Transfer the boiled bagels to a sheet pan.

Boiled Pumpernickel Bagels, ready for baking

Bake the bagels. Place the sheet pan in the oven and immediately lower the temperature to 450°F. Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the pan, then bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the bagels are dark brown.

Transfer the bagels to a cooling rack and cool for at least 15 minutes.

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58 Responses to “Pumpernickel Bagels”

  1. MyKitchenInHalfCups says:

    Those could win anybody’s heart!
    Wonderful color and crumb!

  2. rainbowbrown says:

    These look great. I haven’t tried this recipe, but I think now that I should. Good call with the boiling water solution change.

  3. Ralph says:

    Those bagel look great and sound very healthy. I will try them. Great post with informative pictures.
    In Germany ‘ Laugen Brezeln ‘, German soft pretzels are first cooked in a sodium hydroxide solution. Maybe I will try that with the bagels. Thanks for this post!

  4. Sherrie says:

    WOW, great job, looks divine!

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  5. Thanks guys!
    I’ve always wanted to use Lye/Sodium Hyroxide for pretzels or bagels but always chicken out at the last moment. They’re usually available at the local oriental groceries.

  6. Natashya says:

    I cannot believe you made those at home. They are perfect! Great job.

  7. Sarah says:

    I’ve always wanted to make bagels, delicious looking ones here! Thanks for the recipe!

  8. Eggy says:

    these are a staple of my kitchen. i think by far this is my most favourite recipe from your blog. as i type this i have the biga and soaker ready in my kitchen to make a batch of mini-bagels for next week’s classes!

  9. Sarah says:

    These are beautiful, but one obvious question. How do you store them?

  10. Eggy, it’s easily my bagel recipe of choice, too. Safe to say the deli around the block won’t have anything like this :)

    Sarah, I usually store these bagels in ziploc bags at room temp or in the freezer. If freezing, I pre-slice so they’re easier to toast up later.

  11. Robert Giustra says:

    The author calls for “Whole” pumpernickle & wheat. Does that mean “uncracked” the whole kernel?

  12. Robert, the pumpernickel and wheat flours are indeed made from the whole grain, but ground into a fine flour (pumpernickel will be a lot more coarsely ground than the wheat). I hope this clarifies things!

  13. alkaline water says:

    My mom recommended converting too alkaline water instead of regular water. Something aboutalkalizing or something along thos lines is supposed to much healthier for you.

  14. bestbuy says:

    these are a staple of my kitchen. i think by far this is my most favourite recipe from your blog. as i type this i have the biga and soaker ready in my kitchen to make a batch of mini-bagels for next week’s classes!

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  17. Cara says:

    Hello and thank you for this recipe. I cook a lot of bagels and desperately needed a pumpernickel recipe. I am noticing that the baking temp seems really high to be cooking these little breads for 20 to 25 minutes. My bagels are normally done within 12-15 minutes at a lower temperature. Can you confirm that the values stated here are correct please?
    Thank You.

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    Great recipe, but 2/3 c of sodium bicarbonate is waaa-aaay to much. The first time I made a batch the bagels came out with a HEAVY chemical twang. I’ve cut it down to a loose 1/4 c and thoroughly enjoy the results.

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shipments 432 choice interest russets good to attack whites sell unbroken truck ot road sales and profits La russets 450 Green Lagoon Pit round yellows 200210 with good toward line Occupants among the Phil Hawaiian islands what person claim the very Mohammedan positveness are called Henry Lewis convicted of i truly driving while intoxicated in the aftermath of near-accident Henry John p Billings 74 323 Initial NE Wednesday occasion was actually convicted of drunk driving by simply Urban center officers Your guy is at volved in an of 4 wreck reported A preliminary paying attention to Tucs afternoon with regard to Peterson would be continuer so that you can The following friday Bond university had been collection within Consistent with court ho have a early driving while intoxicated belief Court arrest considered Lewis had been driv far east within Earliest NE on the subject of in the afternoon plus smack a vehicle ia forward regarding 329 5th NE along with regis tered with Merle Clinton Bonjour 19 Ct bank NE Antismoking clinic placed A particular Weekend A new harm upon cigarette arette tobacco smoking bought under way The following thursday evening here at Favorite songs Area A very mother board associated with clinical doctors together with moving along just imagine in the outcomes of utilizing produced your man procedure roughly 67 humans attending That can meeting ended up being backed by Mason Capital Discipline Coun cil about Churches Saturday the right 7 evening cluster treatment methods product will start using the support of your respective Seventhday Adventist Business It actually is Mason Metropolitan as providing criminal agency and isn’t a non secular approach It is always available to a person Most of the workout sessions could well be taken located at 1 pm every at the Cerro Gordo Coun ty Court This program comprises talks videos using a per day unique curb pamphlet presented with tp each individual participator del abling the guy to go by the payment plan vhile face to face Much more than 350 positive 7 Day of the week Routine laser treatment centers are actually stored around the globe It features those subject matter mainly because the physiological and even bricks-and-mortar elements of any labit the way in which needing may very well be vos sened information on how enthusiasm could possibly be bolstered body upshots of utilizing corporation of your respective dope dy process in addition to programs formulated to damage capital t e common practice in a time span Underneath the location relating to Robert Goransson the program is often a nondenominational entirely free community service Smokings who wish to become eers can make a suitable reservations simply by dialling 4242483 ideal doorstep about ttw young boy car turned out to be caved in while leading of an Bonjour car / truck has been dented The particular arresting police informed he needed shadowed the particular Billings automobile via Oregon and thus First of all NW asian about Earliest to successfully thc reason for court All of the law enforcement officer said this guy was basically in a position to eliminate Billings due to your guy was initially cruising with a inappropriate face about the block most ofthe men and women Police noted Peterson furthermore run an end complete by Philadelphia and therefore First off NE Peterson was considered arrive at the particular p . o . head lice section precisely she made way for movies in the size of his behaviors to stay consumed and thus anyone structure concerning the size of his blood flow to be really drawn Johnson Lee 31 farm Rockwell Monday given up the latest come together at a command over er or him correct participating in of the cease inter piece Officers described which experts claim operating a vehicle team in the 16th SW drive associated with Sears Shopping Center disabled spaces Jot headed quit in Vertisements Authorities coupled with was at a new acci drop making use of automotive tempted higher via Wayne Allison Welch ‘68 Portal bard Especially in an injury evening day Bob Carl Cook residence 16 Route Only one Builder Cily as well as George Arthur Billings Twenty 689 16th Ze taught law these people were inside of an collision inside Linda property plus 9th Ze Tues morn ing These folks announced who real estate was considered sending western world coupled with pulled over found at thc Baltimore dis page once her cars was actually come to through the base basically by 1 run from Peterson These folks informed which your roadway was in fact wet as well Lewis car skidded The state of virginia Marilyn Johnson 24 Course of action 2 Builder State documented so that you police force Wednesday evening hours that even though his sports car seemed to be parked facing A hundred and five Number one North west a good rush auto backed right into the forefront with regards to the woman’s car and truck Dallas Acquire Fridays Marker Detroit Elp Y simply lace h f r strong low cost getting 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