Eric Kayser’s Ciabatta au Levain Liquide
No, I didn’t confuse my (non-existent) French and Italian. This formula for Italian ciabatta uses French terminology because it’s from Eric Kayser, well-renowned in Paris for his breads and pastries. In a city saturated with driven artisans dedicated to their craft, Maison Kayser still manages to consistently rank high among the best Parisian bakeries.
Even more impressive, for bread nerds like me at least, are his somewhat accessible bread formulas that share a common thread in liquid levain, wild yeast starter fed with equal weights water and flour. Used with commercial yeast to bring dough to life, the liquid starter also adds a very subtle acidity, a quality lacking in bread raised exclusively with commercial yeast.
After trying several ciabatta formulas, I can’t quite pinpoint why this method produces results better than the rest. All of the ciabatta formulas I tried had an airy interior but the most noticeable difference is the crust. It not so much crunches but shatters audibly as bitten, as opposed to the other formulas that yielded a slightly thicker and chewier crust.
recipe adapted from Eric Kayser
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog
Eric Kayser’s Ciabatta au Levain Liquide
makes 4 small ciabatta loaves
Notes:
- I used Bernard Clayton’s suggestion for approximating French T65 flour by using 3 parts all-purpose flour and 1 part bread flour. I used King Arthur Flour.
- Gentle handling is essential to get the characteristic irregular holes and open crumb of ciabatta.
For the Final Dough:
Ingredients Volume Ounces Grams liquid levain (100% hydration) 5.3 150 all-purpose flour 13.25 375 bread flour 4.4 125 water, at room temperature 350 ml instant yeast 1/4 tsp sea salt 2 tsp .5 14
Final Dough Instructions:
Mix Mix all of the ingredients until evenly incorporated Knead 10 to 12 minutes Ferment #1 60 minutes at room temperature Stretch and Fold Ferment #2 60 minutes at room temperature
Divide 4 pieces
Rest 45 minutes at room temperature Shape Stretch gently into a rectangular shape
shaped ciabatta
Preheat Oven 500ºF/260ºC
Final Proof 45 minutes at room temperature
Steam 1 cup of boiling water poured in a heavy steam
pan (preferably cast iron)
Bake Bake for 10 to 12 minutes at 500ºF/260ºC
Cool At least 15 minutes
My attempt at Eric Kayser’s Baguettes Monge
Similar Posts
September 19th, 2008 at 2:49 am
I love the breads you make! I especially have a liking for airy breads. I’m quite a novice when it comes to bread baking so I haven’t achieved anything quite as airy.
last blog post: Roasted Garlic and Onion Jam
September 19th, 2008 at 3:08 am
I swear Jude, you bake bread ten times better than the boulangeries in our neighborhood! Everything is beautiful!
September 19th, 2008 at 3:58 am
Your Ciabatta is perfect! Exactly the way it should be! I agree, your bread looks far better than at any baker’s…
Cheers,
Rosa
last blog post: GOODBYE SUMMER
September 19th, 2008 at 6:03 am
Wow you really nailed this one! When I made my I got the shape right but the structure was definitely missing something.
“Bread Nerd” that’s awesome. I could never tell my wife that one or I would hear my real name again
September 19th, 2008 at 6:44 am
Awesome looking loaves. I think that is exactly how this bread should look like. Love the fact, that they’re not so white. Nils.
last blog post: Out of town…
September 19th, 2008 at 6:45 am
Yeah Jude, you are the best bread baker I’ve seen. The texture and holes you have in the ciabatta are perfect. You’re not a bread nerd… you’re a bread scientist
last blog post: Bugs Bunny + Mac = ?
September 19th, 2008 at 7:28 am
Nice holes
, although I prefer other breads at the moment.
last blog post: Kornies nach Bäcker Süpke
September 19th, 2008 at 7:42 am
Umm… I think I have bread envy. And dangit, just another of your beautiful breads that I now *have* to make
last blog post: Sourdough Croissants
September 19th, 2008 at 8:22 am
I don’t know why you think you are a nerd! I can see you are passionate about bread.
That texture is marvellous, almost bread sculpture. Will I ever be able to bake anything close to this? Sigh………
September 19th, 2008 at 9:06 am
oh my that bread is just gorgeous!
September 19th, 2008 at 9:44 am
Oy vey. I bet those suckers were tasty. I do, I do.
last blog post: Owl and Cat say…
September 19th, 2008 at 10:01 am
That looks like perfect pain au levain. The chewy texture is so delightful. Thanks for sharing this gorgeous bread.
last blog post: Mango Blueberry Kanten
September 19th, 2008 at 10:39 am
Ooh wow this look super delicious and I love your photos they are excellent!!
last blog post: Phish Food Cupcakes
September 19th, 2008 at 11:45 am
Fabulous bread! It is really stunning.
September 19th, 2008 at 12:05 pm
It looks amazing!! Your step by step photos make it look easy but I know it’s not! ;p
September 19th, 2008 at 2:10 pm
That ciabatta is gold…GOLD I tell you!
last blog post: Chianti Chicken
September 19th, 2008 at 5:56 pm
I think I can only aspire to be a bread nerd! Jude this is totally gorgeous! and the scones are fabulous!!
September 19th, 2008 at 10:51 pm
This looks delicious! Well done.
Do you think it can be done without the extra commercial yeast? My husband can only have wild yeast and I have yet to make a good wild yeast starter let alone make a wild yeast bread.
last blog post: Wagon rides…
September 19th, 2008 at 11:13 pm
Your crust and crumb are perfect! The best I have ever seen – Including bakery bought. You are the master of bread.
last blog post: Lithuanian Rhubarb Cake
September 20th, 2008 at 1:47 am
Argh, that looks more than perfect. Nice and hole-y! I think my instant yeast just died on me. But I could never maintain a levain, I’d be too suspicious of what’s growing on it
last blog post: Dan’s Garlic Bread
September 20th, 2008 at 5:33 am
Those big holes are amazing and the ciabatta looks just perfect!
Is liquid levain the same as sourdough? Can you please refer me to some instructions of preparing it? Thanks a lot!
last blog post: A good year begins with a great dessert
September 20th, 2008 at 7:29 am
Oh that looks just about perfect! My son was just asking when I was going to make some ciabatta again, but I don’t think it will come out anything like this beauty!
last blog post: Balsamic Tomato Bruschetta with Grilled Blue Cheese
September 20th, 2008 at 7:40 am
That’s a new shaping method to me (I usually stretch the dough before dividing it) — looks like it worked beautifully!
last blog post: The Good News
September 20th, 2008 at 8:12 pm
I have a special love for the hole-y interior of the ciabatta. These are beautiful.
last blog post: Grilled Tilapia with Lime Salt and Mango Salad
September 20th, 2008 at 10:05 pm
The wide open structure of this bread just blows my mind; I’ve never seen anything like it, but I’d kill for a taste!
September 20th, 2008 at 10:36 pm
I thank you sincerely for this.
last blog post: Too much Liming
September 20th, 2008 at 10:54 pm
That’s the sexiest bread I’ve ever seen.
September 21st, 2008 at 12:21 am
Jude, the bread looks fantastic! I’ve just made biga planning to bake ciabatta tomorrow
But I’ll definitely try this recipe as well. It looks sooo good!
September 21st, 2008 at 6:27 pm
wow look at that crumb!! amazing!
last blog post: Baked Brie with Homemade Crackers
September 21st, 2008 at 11:21 pm
That is some beautiful ciabatta! Impressive. I’m trying to become a bread nerd, too. I’m reading Peter Reinhart’s whole grain bread book, and, coincidentally, am learning all about the wild yeast starter + commercial yeast magic.
last blog post: Weeds
September 24th, 2008 at 7:41 am
Wow, what an undertaking! The pictures look beautiful, and I’m sure the bread tasted great. I also like the bright pink background.
Thanks for visiting my blog
September 24th, 2008 at 5:14 pm
Wow. Your bread is always so gorgeous! I think you should start hiring yourself out for hands-on bread-making lessons.
last blog post: The Morning-Time Dilemma
September 24th, 2008 at 9:21 pm
Thanks guys… Bread nerd has a nice ring to it I think.
Hannah – Without the extra commercial yeast you’ll need to increase the fermentation and final proof times. I’m going to guess an extra 2-3 hours spread out evenly but I can’t be sure.
Miri – Liquid levain is a sourdough starter. Some good resources for making sourdough starters are http://www.sourdoughhome.com/ and http://www.thefreshloaf.com/
September 26th, 2008 at 12:45 am
Your ciabatta is gorgeous! The texture looks absolutely perfect. I’m totally craving some with oil and vinegar right now.
last blog post: Black and White Angel Food Cupcakes
September 26th, 2008 at 2:00 am
[...] Eric Kayser’s Ciabatta au Levain Liquide ~ Apple Pie, Patis, and Pâté [...]
September 30th, 2008 at 3:48 pm
Should the dough have doubled in volume after the second fermentation? I have it rising now, but I omitted the yeast and am just using a starter, so my timing will be off. Any tips are appreciated–the bread looks amazing.
October 13th, 2008 at 12:13 pm
Hi Eric,
Your bread looks so amazing….I love Cibatta bread and your bread looks great.
January 1st, 2009 at 8:07 am
Jude, I made these yesterday. These were the third product I’ve made with my (relatively new) liquid levain, I’ve used 375 gr bread flour and 125 gr whole wheat flour, and they turned out so delicious that I couldn’t stop smiling all day long! Thanks for a wonderful recipe that I will surely use over and over again!
January 2nd, 2009 at 6:47 pm
i don’t normally post comments but i’d take an exception in this case. your bread looks fantastic! i’ll definitely give it a try.
January 3rd, 2009 at 11:23 am
[...] התוצאה הייתה טעימה אבל לא משביעת רצון מבחינת המרקם. המתכון השני שניסיתי היה סיפור הצלחה, ואני מתענגת על פירותיו בעודי [...]
January 5th, 2009 at 7:53 am
[...] was of baguettes, which turned out tasty but I wasn’t that pleased with the texture. The second recipe I tried produced the most wonderful ciabatta breads! I tweaked with the recipe a bit – using whole [...]
June 19th, 2009 at 4:05 pm
This website is definitely goes to my bookmarks!
July 1st, 2009 at 5:37 am
[...] como decirlo, ni fuerte ni floja (11-12% proteinas aprox.) Ya, ya, de semifuerza. Hacedle caso a Jude, que mezcla 125 g harina de fuerza con 375 de harina [...]
November 14th, 2009 at 4:11 am
[...] reseptiä on hieman muokattu alkuperäisestä APPP-reseptistä, Ciabatta au Levain Liquide. Alkuperäinen resepti on mielestäni hiukka liian iso mahtuakseen mukavasti pellille, joten [...]
March 2nd, 2010 at 4:11 pm
This trend has reached a whole new level courtesy of on-line blog-post services that you can bring on the road. Since most students spend more time online, blogs like help them kick their research into overdrive, Misha Keedy
April 30th, 2010 at 6:00 am
hey, nice weblog and nice submit, simply an advice, make it extra personal, it’s at all times more fascinating!
May 20th, 2010 at 11:50 am
Looking forward to reading more. Great post.Much thanks again. Really Cool.
July 17th, 2010 at 5:06 pm
[...] nice ciabatta bun halved(a frenchy, itallian sourdough bread) but you can use english muffins, i [...]
August 5th, 2010 at 3:16 am
very very nice bread! I’m making it right now… Since the dough was very sticky after the first rising stage I made 3 foldings waiting 20 minutes after each one. Now I don’t know if I have to let it rise another hour after the foldings… I think I’ll wait another half an hour then I’ll cut it.
Hope it turns out half beautiful than yours, which looks perfect!
thanks for the recipe
January 30th, 2011 at 5:56 pm
[...] inspiration comes from Apple Pie, Pastis, and Pate‘s post about ciabatta bread. I lack the mental fortitude to begin making bread today that cannot be eaten for several days, [...]
October 31st, 2011 at 3:58 am
I cannot thank you fully for the articles on your website. I know you’d put a lot of time and effort into them and really hope you know how considerably I enjoy it. I hope I can do the same for someone else sooner or later.
November 2nd, 2011 at 3:58 pm
[...] DessertsJude at Apple, pies and pateSusan at Wild [...]
April 28th, 2012 at 4:03 am
Shuld gay couples adopt children?